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I'm loving the simplicity of the Amentum Boost and would love to try it on bass. However, looking at reviews of the EQD Arrows from talkbass, the biggest issue, for those of us who play at the lower end of the scale, is that it loses a lot of bottom end. I'm considering getting the Amentum and...

Total boss move! Thanks!

Not on the ADHD...

So, I've run into a hiccup. Is there any way of knowing which caps go with which spots? So, for example, if I'm using 1u on C7 but don't want to install the same part on C18, how do I tell them apart. That info isn't in the docs. Is that mapped out anywhere???

I may consider it. Especially since the ADHD is on back order.

Oh nice! I compared both and parts and the schematics do appear to be pretty similar. However, I'm not sure how the Blue Waffle will run on bass (which is what I play) but I'm familiar with how the ADHD/OCD will run on bass. I'm thinking the Blue Waffle is definitely one to try down the road.

So I can go ahead and keep out R32 and R33 as well?

You’re absolutely right about it not just being a low pass and high pass. Definitely holding on to it. I noticed that you didn’t mention taking out R32 and R33. Why would we keep those? Just asking for understanding?

I'm planning to use the ADHD on bass and so may even cut out the switch for HP/LP. I'm assuming the LP option on the switch would be down which means I would connect the top two pads. What resistors or caps could I cut out by doing that? (If any) I tried figuring out myself from what you told...

Dude, you gave me what I wanted and more! Thank you so much. You’re the man.

So, I'm not much a fan of buffered bypass and am just wanting to go true bypass for the ADHD. I plan to not use the DPDT and just connect the spots on the PCB. However, I need to know if True Bypass is in the up or down position. Can someone tell me?

Rechecked, you are absolutely right. My eyes were looking at the Stomp 75 as I had them right next to each other. It's the Stomp that has them in the reverse order. I'll have to think through that one when I get to the stomp. Thanks for filling me in. I feel like there's always something fun...

I've got a question about the Green Russian caps for C11 and C12. I've been looking a up a lot of schematics on the original Green Russian. Everything I'm seeing from the original has 100nF for the second to last cap in the Tonestack (C12) and 10nF for the ground just before it (C11). However...

Bump

Thanks for the quick reply. Yeah, changing the 1n5817 can definitely lead to some trouble. I'm planning do experiment with the muffin fuzz. Gonna try using symmetrical and asymmetrical set ups and using yellow and red diodes to check out the differences. I'll be running it on bass so I'll see...

I saw this and wanted to ask about replacing diodes with LEDs. I've been reading about it and wanted to make sure, if you do this, the shorter end goes on the side where the strip would go in the diode, correct?

Does anyone now when new PCBs generally come in. I've got parts but am just waiting on PCBs. Specifically the Muffin Fuzz and the ADHD.

Got it working! Thanks for the help. Sounds killer!

I did not install anything there. Thanks! The more I read up on it the more it seemed that is the issue. Thanks for confirming that. I only feed it 9v but I'll go ahead and put the right part in.

Hey everyone, Finished building the Ram's Head version of the Muffin Fuzz. I'm getting clean sound through but no effect. Looking back, I saw in the list of parts needed the 5817 is not included but it is in the map of the PCB. Is this all that I'm missing??? If so, why isn't the 5817 included...