Search results

Why not just ask here? You've got some talented folks on this forum that can do very good design work, I bet! I'm also sometimes available for contract PCB design work, but maybe not this month.

This is at odds with I've always heard. Namely, schematics are copyrighted as an image (not as a circuit design) and protected by copyright laws. Redrawing schematics is completely permissible and that redraw becomes a copyright of the drawer. And, best to avoid making it a 100% perfect copy.

Here's what I use: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832768103991.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.385e38daVSJouQ&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

You can get 2 point 2.54mm connectors cheap off AliExpress. I'll find the link for the ones I bought. They work perfectly.

I generally prefer the right angle 9mm pots because they are a very secure mount, but they make 1590B layouts more challenging than 16mm. There is less useable real estate with 9mm. With 16mm there are only 3 contact points. With 9mm there are 5 plus the 2 external standoff tabs to work around.

I had this exact same problem last year. After eliminating all possible problems with power, ground, switches, etc. it turned out that particular batch of blue LEDs I bought were the issue (I was able to reproduce the problem another way). IIRC, jimilee had the same issue with a different set...

R251 is definitely a problem. Second pic at the bottom of the circular cutout.

I use a Hakko kit and a small pointy tip. When the tip bends out of shape, I replace it. Maybe once every year or two. If you use a bulkier tip you may never have to replace it unless you start to lose surface area or get imperfections on the tip edge. As mentioned, a light sanding with 400-600...

You can even do it with a DPDT. If your pot is a voltage divider, use two pots of twice the value and swap the wipers. So, say you have a 100kA volume pot. Parallel lugs 3 and 1 of two 200kA (or 250kA) pots and use 1/2 of the switch for the wipers. If your pot is wired as a variable resistor...

Yes, you can put the resistor either b/w the neg side of the 22uF and lug 3 of the Fuzz pot or between lug2 of that pot and ground. This dials back the max fuzz setting just a bit in case noise gets to be too much. The controls from the Fuzz Factory don't port well to this design since is quite...

You can ask one of the designer's of this effect...which is me! This is a Function F(x) Clusterfuzz (Jr version). Actually, this design was mostly Forrest but I'm not above taking undeserved credit. Anyway, If you want to eliminate some noise at the max settings, increase the 10pF to 47pF and...

I appreciate the feedback on the wiring. I designed it like that because of the the very particular way I've always wired 3PDT switches. But I realize it isn't necessarily the best way for everyone. I'm already adopting a new wiring scheme for future projects. Actually, minimal or no wiring is...

Dig it!

I would like to speak to the manager of documentation.

That's the plan. I need to check on chip availability though.

Either of the white ones are my jam here.

I really dig that artwork. Nice job!

Yes, I have the Tomlov. It's come in really handy with doing trace inspections and most especially when reviewing SMD soldering. Only problem with mine is I thought it had a rechargeable battery in it but it does required to be plugged in to work. Well worth the $50 or so I paid for it.

It very much is the "jack of all trades, master of none" type effect but it does have a little bit something special. As do so many of the old EHX pedals often do.

This is how I do mine. Usually 6-8 in a row with the outer diameter lining up with the edges of the PCBs. And, the outermost holes extend just beyond the board outline. Makes em easy to break apart.