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Your DC output on pins 14/15 should be reading between 5.5v-6v. Something is wonky with the two 33k resistors, or the 10uF at their junction, I think.

Wavelord

The reason I don't know any of this is because I'm still using 10 year old software, haha. I'm old.

The problem I had with the Tayda ones were that the screw threading was wrong. Tighten them up and they would jut release. I threw them all out.

There was a port of the mbp v3 library to Diptrace a while back and I think some folks have had success with it. I will be releasing v4 this year so I'll see about asking someone to do a new port. I'm just stuck on Eagle for the foreseeable future. BTW: Try out 4 layer design when you get...

One thing I forgot to mention, and you probably already know, is that surface prep is like 50% of the battle. If you are transferring to an enclosure or copper clad, proper cross-hatch sanding and clean up with Acetone makes a big difference irrespective of whatever printer or toner transfer...

Press n Peel Blue + Brother printer on thick paper setting + iron has served me well for years and years. But, always expect to fill in some areas with a bit of black sharpie. I did use a laminator at one point for transfers but it was too much work.

Well I was gonna suggest flamethrower...

Use a jewler's flathead screwdriver and hammer in a cross shape. Then unscrew! Or, drill it out maybe.

Polarization is not an issue. The reason for the pop in this application is the presence of DC on the switch contacts. The caps you are switching between have no DC, but the common contact (IOW, middle lug) may have DC depending on what's happening in the circuit before the switch. One way to...

Oh yeah, I remember you mentioning a podcast before. How does one acquire such entertainment? Here is a cool pic. My dad bought this Rambler a couple months before he passed. It was offered to me but I decided to let it go to someone who appreciates classic cars. It ended up going to a collector.

Meeting up with Conrad and Jason of ...and you will know us by the trail of dead a couple of years ago. For some reason, I look like a damn giant in this photo.

If this were the 70's we'd be telling her to get busy with the led solder.

🎯🎯(y)

A single PT2399 delay may put you at 20mA+. That's really not so bad, though even on battery power.

The FV-1 will get you 1sec and will sound better than any PT2399 most likely. You can even program it to have PT2399 noise, if'n-u-want.

Great build!

For the rectifier diodes, you want something with a VF as close to 0.33v as possible. You can use BAT46 Schottky diodes as a sub which are 0.35v. Once you get into higher VF, the effect may not work correctly. I tried D9E recently which have a VF of 0.45v and they did not work at all! For the...

Yup, Q1 is your suspect. Audio probe the gate and source pins (gate for input, source for output).

It's not a dumb question. Ground is ground whether or not you are working with positive of negative DC voltage. In the case of an inverter, that 47uF cap is still a power decoupling cap but the + end is connected to ground rather than the - because in that case, ground is the higher voltage...