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What’s the longest you have waited for boards doing the slow boat option and they still show up? It seems to be random for me. I have some orders I am getting in the two week window and others that are taking a month. They are showing up in random order, lol. The slow part seems to be once it’s...

I’m not going to start a new thread. I built this because @MichaelW wanted me too. I can piggy back and he will be fine, lol. . Not much to say except it sounds really great. I completely missed a cap and it didn’t work at first but once I did it’s quite pleasant. It’s certainly worth a build if...

I dont know what else you build but if you get into stacked boards you will want to make sure the caps are no higher than 7mm. The most common size i usually see is 11mmish. Not an issue for most builds. 1590a or stacked need to be shorter. Just something to consider. Most of the time i use low...

For those of you who are interested here is the tayda template for this project. Per my norm I used 3mm leds with no bezel and the smaller lumberg style power jack so adjust to taste. This is based on the most recent template so this should be correct but of course its not verified yet...

I have started on the template but I am waiting to hear back on a few in consistencies. I am sure he threw this together from a hodgepodge of build docs and I want to verify some of the numbers. As of now the numbers don’t add up, lol. I am using my neurotron(verified) as a guide and messed it...

I’m still interested in the monster. I will also be happy to adapt the drill template for tayda. Give me a little bit and I will post it here

Positive = long = anode (a) negative = short = cathode (k) If you remember that cats suck (cat-thode) and are lesser then dogs you wont ever forget. Your welcome.

I have the Ldr’s from past harbinger builds. I always bought extras. Stompboxparts does have the 9203’s currently. I just never got any of these boards before they were gone unfortunately. I never had any extra wah shells now I have 4, lol. I did message Bean and I am crossing my fingers he has...

Can you google where I can find one of these boards, lol?

Yeah I can only get on the madbean forum on my phone and I really don’t like the way it looks. It’s hard to find stuff on the little screen. I’ve tried to do the reset and I must have used an old email or something because I never get it.

Thank you sir.

Anyone have the build docs for the harbinger 2? It’s not posted on the bean archive and I can’t find it on my computer.

In the future if you decide to run multiple tube pedals from c2c the Cioks dc7 or dc5 power supplies are tough to beat. They are pricey but each outlet is isolated and can power up to 600ma each which is plenty for “MOST” of the c2c projects. The one spots are a great buy and I am sure the power...

I was honestly just curious if and why it was ruled out? There is nothing wrong with it if you build a rat or rat like pedal. Like Robert said its just not as sexy to advertise but functionally equivalent and much easier to source a legit ic. Now if i was asked if I would like some real 308’s of...

You may want to check you power supply as well. It needs to put out at least 200ma. Not enough will likely cause it to not function properly.

Why not just go with an Op07 and call it a day? I have both and cant tell a difference. Plus you can get them from legit vendors and not have to worry about it. I promise I’m not trying to be an ass. It’s a legit question.

You might want to consider one of the current meter kits to measure ma’s in the future. It’s especially helpful for the tube pedals. To be honest I’m surprised it worked at all with such a small amount of power. https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/cmkit/

What are you using for your power supply? The wrecking ball will pull significantly more power than the other projects.

Okay so for my second one at first it would only tune and not pass signal in bypass. It was the opposite of yours, lol. Long story short after doing a lot of troubleshooting it ended up being a bad relay. I thought mine was clicking but I guess it really wasn’t. I supplied my own parts and...

It’s the current one. It matches perfect. I have used it myself and verified. It’s gonna depend on what you are using for your axis but it’s right. I’m not at home to get a better pic but I had this one. it’s the flesh wound in the bottom right