Unfortunately my tuner is not tuning as well.

chongmagic

chongmagic

Well-known member
When soldering on the ribbon cable, I managed to pull out one of the wires from the harness. It fires up, but the tuner does not work. Both relays are clicking on.

Here are some pictures of the cable.

If I need to buy another cable, is that a possibility?

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Did the pin pulled with the wire or it's still in the connector ? You might be able to get the pin out if it's still in there and crimp it back to the wire. Then it's just as simple as pushing it back in in the right way.
 
I will try to push the pin out but I think it may be futile, anyways I ordered another screen just in case.

I guess I am confused as the guide says the following:

My harness is just missing the 19 green cable, shouldn't it technically still function?

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Technically it should still work. The connecter is a little finicky to get seated properly. You may want to gently pull it out and try re- seating it. Don’t force it but make sure its all the way in on both sides. I actually bent the whole group of wires to make it more of a straight shot to put it in and it was easier.
 
I will try reseating the harness and going to try checking the voltages again. One of the NE555 chips does not seem to be seated properly going to try and reseat it as well.
 
While I was soldering my Q-Tune, I kept thinking I wasn't getting enough solder in some of the pads, but really it was just a trick of the eye — the pads looked empty 'til I changed my viewing angle and then could see that it wasn't "solder-hungry", just a dark-reflection and that I'd already filled the pad and made the component-pad connection.


Good catch on the possible stray-wire, Jimilee. That definitely looks suspect.


I had trouble seating the MCP6002, but managed to gently* re-apply it a few times 'til it seated correctly.
*Lest I wreck the socket (highly likely) or bend/break the IC's legs (unlikely but possible with my ham-fists).

I wanted to use what was supplied with the kit, AND I've run out of machined sockets — otherwise I might've replaced the fly-leaf IC-sockets with machined units. I treated those fly-leaf sockets with kid-gloves, as I've had less than stellar experiences with flakey fly-leaf.



So that's my recommendation — check the fly-leaf sockets 😼 for broken legs or other malformed maladjusted malignant maladapted malfunctioning malarkey...
 
Looks like the stray wire was touching so I cut it. One of the NE555 chips was not seated as great as it could be so I reseated it. My voltages match what is in the build docs. It will work as a tuner now in buffered mode, but not in true bypass mode?
 
chongmagic said:
It will work as a tuner now in buffered mode, but not in true bypass mode?
Click to expand...
Is that a question or a statement? Assuming it's a statement, that is odd. If in TB, the ONLY thing in the path are pins 8,9 of the relay (IC6) and the bypass relay IC5. If you hear both relays clicking, it should work.

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Rpschultz13 said:
Is that a question or a statement? Assuming it's a statement, that is odd. If in TB, the ONLY thing in the path are pins 8,9 of the relay (IC6) and the bypass relay IC5. If you hear both relays clicking, it should work.

View attachment 102587
Click to expand...

Sorry, yes it is not working in true bypass. I can hear the relay click over when I turn on buffered bypass. The other relay clicks on when I plug in the pedal.
 
Does it tune in both TB and BB? But it only plays (passes signal) when in BB? So you can use it in BB?
I'm staring at the signal path trying to understand where the signal goes and where it doesn't go (but should).
 
Feral Feline said:
So that's my recommendation — check the fly-leaf sockets 😼 for broken legs or other malformed maladjusted malignant maladapted malfunctioning malarkey...
Click to expand...
Check to make sure no pins are bent in the 12 pin JST on the screen. The outermost pin is the one that is most easily bent, it goes to GPIO15 and controls the TB-BB relay.
 
Rpschultz13 said:
Check to make sure no pins are bent in the 12 pin JST on the screen. The outermost pin is the one that is most easily bent, it goes to GPIO15 and controls the TB-BB relay.
Click to expand...

I bought a new screen and it came with another harness. I desoldered the old harness and soldered back the new one and plugged it back into my old screen.

I am able to tune when it is in buffered bypass, The tuner doesn't detect anything in true bypass. It does pass sound, however pushing the stomp switch doesn't mute the sound, not sure if it is designed to do so. Here are pics with the new harness.

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I unplugged the footswitch for better clarity.
 
Have you flashed the new screen and tried it? I'm still wondering about those 12 pins in the JST connector of the screen. Make sure they aren't bent on the old screen.

Just to be clear, can you confirm I'm understanding right what is and what isn't working? And also try the monitor mode and see what works in that situation. Is this correct?
1757591215074.png
 
The other thing to try would be to go to the Settings > Advanced > Factory Reset.

Then, power off and back on again and then use the foot switch to switch back and forth a couple of times. Does it behave properly at that point?
 
Rpschultz13 said:
Have you flashed the new screen and tried it? I'm still wondering about those 12 pins in the JST connector of the screen. Make sure they aren't bent on the old screen.

Just to be clear, can you confirm I'm understanding right what is and what isn't working? And also try the monitor mode and see what works in that situation. Is this correct?
View attachment 102718
Click to expand...
Your chart is correct, I will have to test mon+BB mode.

Let me try the new screen, but first I will try a factory reset.
 
Okay so for my second one at first it would only tune and not pass signal in bypass. It was the opposite of yours, lol. Long story short after doing a lot of troubleshooting it ended up being a bad relay. I thought mine was clicking but I guess it really wasn’t. I supplied my own parts and always have those relays on hand so it’s worth a shot. You may even want to try and see if swapping the relays changes it. I think the top one is the one that may be the culprit.
 
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