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As per @Giorfida three caps on DIP switches in series with a 250K trimpot, fits even more comfortably on a one-sided 1" x 0.5" board

oh for sure, was just tryna recreate what Mythos made but in series instead of parallel. The trimpot idea sounds pretty cool though (if anyone wants the diptrace or gerber files for that 1"x0.5" board lmk, obviously haven't verified but it looks right)

1" x 0.5" with 1/8w resistors, is that small enough?

honestly, this is small enough that making it thru-hole it'd probably still fit in most control cavities

that looks exactly right and must be what they're doing! So if series is the "correct" way of doing it, you'd need a 6-pos dip switch - three caps on one bank, in series with two resistors and a straight-thru on the following bank, and know that all three dips down on either bank means it's out...

Mine’s gonna be labeled ¿¡MAS!?

Is the drill template for this one available yet? If it becomes available, will the drill template change (besides the diameter of the drilled hole) if using the 3PDT switch board instead of the 4P3T board?

Ugh, clearly whoever built that pedal isn’t going anywhere in this business (Sidebar I’m team outie Jack til the day I die)

Could be wrong but I think the "warm" mode in the DD-8 is supposed to be a DD-2/3 emulation? The DD-2/3 really is something special in the world of digital delays, I dunno if any of the FV-1 delay algos out there currently model the analog bits in the audio path?

Highly recommend it! Low parts count makes for a quick stripboard build or breadboard if you don't wanna order and wait for a PCB.

The EA trem, it's got *such* a great pulse-y character, and with no depth it's a fantastic boost.

It looks like if I tried to re-draw the Burr Brown logo from memory. "It's two Bs in a box, right? How hard could it be?"

That's correct, jumpering D4 and replacing D3 and D5 with germanium diodes would make that setting symmetrical GE clipping (one GE diode in each direction).

Nope! Yep!

To add my $0.02, I've built two Lead Solders at this point, both just my usual method of two 6" unshielded pre-cut pre-stripped pre-bond stranded 24awg from @StompBoxParts run along the sides of the enclosure, and neither have had noise or oscillation issues. I think that first build report...

Also, there’s no reason that C11 needs to be 10u on the Bootleg, you can definitely get away with a 1u Film or Tantalum with no noticeable change. I’m assuming JHS went with 10u there just because that’s what it was on the original TS. EDIT: probably same with C9 on the Gloryhole. They’re DC...

Might start with the electrolytics in the audio path. The current that electrolytics leak can cause popping and other weirdnesses when they’re in the audio path (and why I usually default to subbing in film or tantalum in the audio path unless there’s a specific and good reason not to).

Indeed, whenever I use a pre-drilled Tayda, minimum I have to ream out the LED hole to 6mm for the bezels I use and 1/2” for the DC Jack. Takes maybe 30 seconds and lets me use the parts I prefer though

If you add an extra nut on the inside, an Outie doesn’t end up sticking out nearly as far, about on-par with the small Lumbergs. Worth a shot!

Another win for team Outie DC Jack 🔥🔥🔥