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The TL071 is a single op-amp, not a dual op-amp, so that rules out most of those (2134, 4558, 4559, 072, 022, 062, 833, 1458) It’s also running at a very boosted voltage (isn’t it like 32 volts or something?), and I don’t know offhand if any of the single op-amps left on your list are able to...

Immaculate build as always! The OS-2 was my main mid-gain for a while and I much preferred it to either the SD-1 or DS-1, usually with color, tone, and gain all around noon.

Also shouldn’t D2 be the same type of diode as D1?

That’s where your 9V and GND are connected.

I mean, technically, it *is* an LDR and an LED (inside a blackout plastic casing), but it’s manufactured and QA’d by a company with rep and customers to lose if it doesn’t perform up to spec in its intended applications. So if you don’t wanna risk rolling your own and ending up with a bum...

Yeah but they work the first time, unlike the multiple combos of LEDs and LDRs I tried in my Tso.

You should build a General Tso but with VTL5C4s instead of rolling your own LED+LDR, no headache and sounds *fantastic*.

Correct, all of that is specified in the Gerber and NC Drill files you provide them.

So usually the first thing I do in a schematic is make (well, copy and paste from a previous schematic) the power supply section, and then rename those nets (usually “GND”, “VC”, and “VR” if necessary). Then, when you bring that schematic into PCB Layout, you can tell your ground pour to...

https://www.taydaelectronics.com/slide-switch-1p2t-through-hole-2a-125vac.html I use these for when I want an SPDT to be infernal, they fit perfectly

If domestic is not a requirement anymore, then I think you'll be hard-pressed to find a better deal than going with JLCPCB.

Lots of the domestic boutique brands seem to subcontract to Cusack Manufacturing.

Oh dip, Tayda does a version too! https://www.taydaelectronics.com/lh-12-indicator-lamps-white-color-5-12v.html

dunno if this is quite what you’re looking for but https://guitarpedalparts.com/products/foot-switch-led-ring-red

Bummer! So yeah to get Q2 down to 9V, you might have to change TRIM2 to a 200K trimpot, or play with the value of R9, whichever is easier for you to do.

Also, check this thread for info on what to do in case you can't hit 9V (you might either have to up your trimpot size or modify a few resistor values) https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/argentum-1212-200k-trimpot-for-q2.14945/

I think most of us shoot for 1/2 Vcc (so about 9V) at the drains of the J201s (which is nice and easy to do with that SMD footprint, you can just put your DMM probe right in the hole). Of course there's the "use your ears to decide what's best" crowd too, but 9V is a good starting point for that.

You can just bend the legs of the tin can, no need for an adapter.

60 years in business! But a GeoCities-ass website :unsure: Their catalog of parts seems small but specialized for audio bits and bobs, kinda surprised they have so little distribution in America. Also they have an MN3207 BBD workalike in their catalog, how did *that* not come up during the...

For real tho, does anybody have the scoop on this Alfa brand? I've built a Rat with one of their AS301s and it did the Rat thing just fine, they've also got a CA3080 workalike I wanna try out, but where did they come from and what is their deal? Always cool to have someone making...