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Well...if you take four 750Ω resistors, put two in series, the other two in series (each = 1500Ω). Then put each of these in parallel you're back to 750Ω. Do this as many times as you wish, how many resistors do you want to use? In multiples of 4 of course... Hmmmm yet another exciting...

Uh, yeah, that's it. Lack of sleep. No longer partake so can't use that one. A bit of salt for the wound? You guys are ruthless LOL

Too funny :LOL: Kinda wishing I had done more than look at the picture....

Ummm, not to be picky but that picture is only 477 ohms....:unsure::poop::eek:

I use Solder with Silver for increased strength. Not sure it conducts any different than standard solder. It's pricey but I only build for myself so i dont go through too much. If i were to start building for others i would get some 63/37 water soluable flux core. I might get some anyway...

I've been using leaded solder for nearly 40 years and am just too stubborn to change!

4mm OD, 23awg solid center, choice of colors, available by the foot, currently $0.79/foot. Belden Mini RG59

In a PTP build i would put the CLR as physically near the 9vdc source as practical. Reason being wiring is more likely to touch a ground than 9vdc. On a PCB I think the physical layout of the board is the determining factor of where it actually is in the circuit. I agree from a circuit's...

Things that make you go "hmmmm".

My guess is that it may have been the type of cap used in the original pedal, but I'm curious too. Only the person that wrote the BOM would know for sure. What pedal? Maybe ask the question and flag Robert if it's one of his.

What kind of wire strippers did/do you use?

Have you tried different power supplies? Guitars? Amps? Cables? Just to rule out odd interactions...

Any particular reason not to use single strand/solid core, @jwin615 already mentioned some. I use 22awg solid extensively in my pedals, 20awg solid in my amps. VERY easy to work with. I use it with PVC insulation but am used to it. Not sure if it's available with Silicon. A word about...

I've spent many, perhaps TOO many, hours reading posts about various components and where to use what. Here's my thoughts on capacitors: IMHO there are only a handful of hard and fast rules pertaining to Capacitors as used in pedals. 1. Never exceed rated voltage 2. Pay attention to polarity...

Pomona brand. Pricey but worth it. Get the pre-made ones, you'll probably spend more to get the clips and make them up yourself. Available in different lengths and colors.

Nice! If you haven't already try out the brightness and focus knobs. In your picture the trace looks a bit bright. To work on a pedal you need two connections, a ground reference and the point you wish to look at. Connect the clip on the black wire to a ground point on the pedal and the tip...

Great graphix but where's Trixie and Chim-Chim? Nice pedals!!!

I've had to use them at work too in past jobs. At home I've never used them and do live in a dry desert climate prone to static electricity. Never had a failure i could attribute to static (knock on wood). But I am careful to touch my workpiece prior to introducing a static sensitive...

Shrt version of how an old CRT oscilloscopes works: CRT=Cathode Ray Tube. Internally it generates a beam that when it strikes the phosphorus coating inside the screen of the tube lights it up and it will glow for a very short time. This beam creates a pinpoint of light that can be steered to...

Tektronix is a great scope. Once scope is on and CRT has came on press and hold BEAM FIND button that is next to CRT. If necessary adjust various POSITION knobs along top to center trace. Release BEAM FIND. Start with a single probe plugged into Channel 1. Put the CH1 BOTH CH2 switch to...