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A quicker mod would just to be to add a resistor (such as 330k) across the drive pot (lug 1-2). This will work in parallel with the pot resistance. (Max would be 1000k || 330k which equals 248k). You could either do this as an experiment to determine your desired max, and then use a pot as...

hmm so this isn't a stomp, it's meant to sit on the piano. But interesting idea... I looked and around and didn't see many options for guitar pedalboard stomp metronomes, beside in some multi-fx units. I wonder if anyone would use something like this. The input jack allows running your...

If I follow the result correctly so far, it seems like an issue in the IC2 area (whether the chip or something else). You could remove the TL072 (ic2) and check the voltages again. (With the charge pump back in). The voltages were weird before. We’ll see if removing the chip and measuring at...

Yep I had no doubt of being understood around here for that.

Wow I’m surprised it makes it that far. It’s reaching pin 6 of IC2? Sounds like the effect should? Edit: read your message above wrong, though you meant it dies at pin7 of IC2. All signs still point to issues at IC2 (either the chip or surrounding components)

Yeah my idea oils basically just run IC2 on 0v - 9v (or a little less) instead of the designed -9v - 18v. Audio should work this way (checking if the charge pump chip itself is bad). With the probe, we’re you able to find the point at which volume drops?

Hmm I wonder if we could try to bypass the charge pump. Remove the pump chip from the socket. Stick a wire in the pin5 socket hole and clip it to ground.

The IC voltage are looking strange to me. Are you measuring the dc voltage compared to ground? Where you’re showing error should just read zero volts (ground points). IC2 pin 8 should read near 18V, and pin 4 should read near -9V. I would also look into fashioning a simple “audio probe” to...

Here's the arduino code.

I needed a metronome for my kids practicing piano. Would have been cheaper to buy one, but here we are. The 3-character LED segment display is from tayda. I found a great article about wiring it up and coding it here. I ended up using the library at the end of the article since it's so...

I assume onboard 9v battery, in that case be sure to wire up the guitar jack with TRS so that unplugging the guitar cable switches off the power (tie the battery - wire to the jack ring lug)

I made a version of the solina midi synth from the same blog, also originally by Jan Ostman. It’s cool but quite lo-fi sounding and quirky. The code for these is quite hard to decipher honestly, at least compared other hobby type arduino code I’ve seen or wrote. But for this drum machine, you...

Awesome! I’ve messed with this project and loaded the code to hear the sounds. But haven’t put it together in a box with the switches. You’ve inspired me to maybe get back to it.

I agree with all the Deep Blue suggestions. It’s excellent. I made an Fv-1 approximation of the Deep blue delay circuit. The actual repeats are handled in digital, but all the surrounding circuitry that imparts the EQ/tone follows the deep blue circuit. The main benefit for your use case would...

Hey! I've essentially re-written the code to be easier for me to read since the above posts. Here is the code. The pitch shifts follow info straight from spin-semi site (see the "rom_pitch" sample code and the AN0001 "application note" pdf from the "products" tab of the spinsemi site. I'm...

Chorus effects work by making a vibrato, slightly delayed, and then mixing 50/50 with your dry signal. The Caesar puts this mixing on a knob so you can go from dry to chorus to vibrato. (D-c-v knob on the Julia). Part of the chorus-y sound is the out of tune-ness between dry and vibrato, and...

Nice, couple thoughts C1 needs polarity flipped D1 is the 9V to GND style, instead of the series style of pedalpcb. If you apply reverse voltage on accident, D1 will fry. If you do it like PPCB products, applying reverse voltage does no damage. You lose like 0.3V or so (if you use the 1N5817 I...

Yeah the R is an additional CLR (current limiting resistor). You already have a CLR in you red wire from the 9V +, under the heat shrink, it looks like to me. I guess I thought you were using red / blue from the diagram, rereading you’re actually using red/green. In my experience blue is...

Yep that should get you up and running. This would address all 3 items.

Here we go Attached image is from this article: https://www.earthquakerdevices.com/blog-posts/killswitch-engagement#:~:text=On%20the%20other%20hand%2C%20a,will%20do%20the%20same%20thing. Read elsewhere just now that the breaking (or interruptive) type can lead to pops when switching...