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I have never used veroboard, I can't read a schematic and I'm like 3 for 7 on pedal builds. I'm pretty close to giving up on this hobby so I don't know if I'm going to dive deeper into it to build this if there isn't a PCB. Thanks guys.

Anyone know where I can get a PCB for one of the small amps like the Ruby or the Noisy Cricket? I've looked everywhere and the only place I've found one is FuzzDog but with shipping and tariffs it's just not reasonable. Please help, I really want to make one of these.

Anyway, I've now put in 3 different 3dpts with 0 change in the status. I've seriously given up. This is going on the shelf.

I will fix the 'circumcision' issue moving forward. I swapped the 3pdt and now I'm back to not getting any sound either way. I'm done with this pedal. Moving on.

I can't fully remove it from the enclosure due to the DC jack but I was able to isolate it from the enclosure using a cloth and no change to the situation. I'm assuming that was to check to see if it's getting grounded on the enclosure? However, when checking continuity with the 3pdt, I get...

I have scoured this thing and I can see no possible shorts or bridges. I re-flowed a bunch of the connections that looked even slightly off and no change. What are the chances it's the board? Maybe a faulty footswitch? I'll try swapping the 3pdt later today to see if that makes a difference.

I've got the plastic covers on the pots and I just double checked all the solder joints with my magnifier glasses and I didn't see any bridges or anything that could be causing a short.

Whoops, it was a 12v. I have a separate one I was using for testing and apparently it's 12v. I swapped to a onespot 9v: #1 - 4.83 #2 - 4.84 #3 - 4.79 #4 - 0 #5 - 4.82 #6 - 4.83 #7 - 4.83 #8 - 9.29

If I set my multimeter to 20 V--- #1 - 6.24 #2 - 6.26 #3 - 6.19 #4 - 0 #5 - 6.24 #6 - 6.24 #7 - 6.24 #8 - 11.99

Every pin reads 0.3 when my multimeter is set to 200 V~

It's not the prettiest but I did look with magnification and didn't see any connections.

Okay, it works in bypass now but I get nothing but silence when the pedal is engaged.

Makes sense, I can remember seeing something that would do that. Thanks!

Okay, I'll give that a shot. The metal is continuous over the top so I thought it wouldn't matter which side they were soldered to but I will move those two and see what happens. I'll update later this evening. Thank you!

Hey all, Second pedal not working right off the bat and second thread I've started. No shorts, everything seems to be wired up correctly compared to the directions. The power works, LED is good but no sound with effect off or on. No sound period. I get the buzz if I touch the tip soldering...

About a month ago I ordered 5 pedals worth of components (caps, resistors, etc, not the pots, jacks, knobs, etc) plus some spares and when I compared mouser to Tayda, it was still cheaper to get Mouser than Tayda. If I remember correctly, shipping was pretty close to or more than the parts...

As a recent joiner of this hobby, I've heard lots of good things about Tayda but I've never ordered from them because the shipping and tariffs have been astronomical. I'm bummed I missed out on it before things went sideways, especially because they have the best range of colors for enclosures...

Ok, I flipped the pots, added the belton brick and rewired the footswitch to the board and it works! Thank you to @Erik S and @falco_femoralis for their assistance. You guys are awesome! Now it's time to drill a new enclosure with the holes in the right places and finish it off.

I was trying to move the jacks to the side which is why I put the pots on the way I did. Of course I didn't account for the fact that it would change which pins go where. Forgetting the belton brick was just a bonehead move. I have it, I just didn't add it to my parts when I populated the board...

Wow, messed that up pretty good didn't I? Thank you, I'll work on it.