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I've built a few pedals, built a bunch a pedal models in LTspice, and have some electronics knowledge from university (ok, in 1982..). I've been looking specifically at the design of the filters in some of the popular pedals to try and figure out what the designer wanted. There's been a lot of...

You are right. I guess the cost of components are just a small fraction of the cost of any pedal when you consider R&D, marketing, and overheads such as manufacturing, shipping, and warranty.

The Tayda pre-drilled enclosures have an 8 mm hole for the DC jack. Are there any DC jacks out there that fit an 8 mm hole other than the Lundberg? Also what input output jacks are people using? From all the photos I've seen of others builds there seems to be a popular choice but I can't find...

Yes I did my research and bought some 24 AWG stranded pre-bonded wire from LoveMySwitches. It seems to work very well but seems expensive at $16.99 for 100 feet. I have a wire stripper tool so at least stripping the ends is easy.

Weller WLC100. However, I had some major tip issues and also had serious problems replacing the wrong wire with the right wire without overheating the pcb holes. The tip of my iron seemed to melt away - I guess my efforts to clean it using solder braid and a mass of copper stranded cable was a...

When you consider that the Naga Viper has just 17 components, including the pots, we can only imagine what the OEM's profit margin on the original pedal is given that they sell it for $179.

Nice. I just used a Red Herring board to make a Clark Gainster. It takes just a few component changes and one less pot. My build thread is here. On yours, what is the small board near the switch? I don't have any of that...

A few hours later it's finished. I had to replace the Lundberg power input as I burnt it soldering. Are there any other power inputs available in same thread size but in metal? I had 2 other Lundbergs but I dont think I'll buy more.

Update: almost all of the old wiring has been replaced, a new switch hand-wired in (no pcb) and results tested. No output. After some continuity checking I found that the Out pin on the main pcb was not connected to the wiper lug on the volume pot - and there is a pcb trace going between the...

It's solid and it's horrible. When my 24 AWG gauge turns up I'll rip it out and replace it. I decided not to screw around with a two-dollar 50 switch and 50 cent circuit board I'll just replace it with another switch.

It's the correct side up. (That was one mistake I made earlier then fixed it before those shots were taken). However, after a lot more testing I've decided that the problem is in the switch or switch pcb as 95% of the time the connection to Out isn't made when the pedal is switched on. With...

Well it worked when I connected up the power, in, and out to the breadboard. So I put it in the box, soldered up the input and output jacks, and the power jacks, and now it works only in bypass. LED is on, but no sound. Only change was soldering up the jacks and putting it in the box. So I know...

For my first pcb build of a pedal I decided to build a Clark Gainster / Hoochie Mama clone. The closest pcb available is the Red Herring, and other members figured out how to do this a while back: I breadboarded it successfully and played it for a few days using the Protoboard: Protoboard...

It's the AionFX kit so it has a charge pump as part of a well filtered power supply, including a pair of 100n caps to kill HF noise. There is nothing wrong with the kit, it's my home network - I feed my router output into the mains then out again to save using spotty wifi or a long network cable...

I tried compressing it more by changing it to one diode each way in the first feedback loop and it made a noticeable change in headroom, but I think I prefer the stock arrangement as it gets a bit too close to a TS. (I see the new Barber clone made this switchable - will have to look at doing...

I have the Gainster up and running on the breadboard. Side by side with an AionFX Cerulean (Bluesbreaker with switchable clipping and extra gain) it sounds very similar except the Bluesbreaker has a little less bass, and there is a touch more middle in the Gainster. The Gainster clipping is also...

With modern wiring (which I still have on my Yamaha SG) I find that I keep all the controls at 10. With 50s wiring (other guitars) I never have the controls at 10.

I modelled the various wiring options in LTspice and here is what the results look like in the frequency domain: Modern Wiring with no Treble Bleed (just showing 1k - 10k range) - note how the peak frequency moves left as the vol control is rolled down (10 - 8 - 6) (tone is at 10). This is why...

I think you have just started a thing for 2 volume controls per pickup.

Am I correct in thinking this would also apply to the Rangemaster circuit? I'm finding it hard to use one of these on my pedalboard as it doesn't sound right when sitting after the tuner (buffered) but when used standalone it's noisy.