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I agree, excellent knob choice!

Have you verified it yet? Looks good to me at least.

Thanks for checking! It's probably more of an issue for guitar, it can be pretty noticeable for me. I found some FSB (I think) thread with a partial schematic, and it seems R2 was 470k and 390k in parallel, so the end result would be more like 213k. Not sure if Fuzzdog made a mistake or traced a...

Hey do you happen to remember how the blended clean signal was/is for you? For me it seems to boost and warm up the signal a bit too much, I wonder if I messed something up or if that's just something it does (or maybe 2N5088 tolerance could affect it)? The one time I don't socket the...

Op amps have different specs, so it makes sense there can be audible differences. I think "it doesn't really matter which op amp you use" is more rooted in a "you won't hear the difference in a live setting or a recording" or "whatever op amp works in the circuit, in most cases". I would also...

I was going to argue that the Brita cake should help avoid the copyright, but it turns out that it's purely a Finnish name for it and comes from the name (of a person) Brita instead. Soooo probably not helpful. "Brita Cake Boost" also doesn't make much sense...

Wait, so it's not single coils alone, it's more like a strat position 2 or 4, so two humbucking single coils?

Thanks for the tip, I switched C11 to a MLCC instead of electrolytic, and the pop dropped 20dB in a very simple measurement (just recording the pop to an interface). So a very good improvement! There's still a small click left, but not too bad.

Nice work, yeah I think that would work!

Man this is a really interesting brain workout, trying to figure out how I would do it. Hopefully Robert can tell us the answer because it sounds like he has it figured out. If I understood correctly, this ugly Paint diagram is basically what you want to switch between? The Deflector being...

The thing that has stopped me from building any combo pedals is that if I build them separately, I could effectively use them as a combo (just put them next to each other) or not as I feel like. So the obvious answer here to me is "why not give it a try if you have reverb/delay pedals already"...

To expand on this, the letters come from (A)node and Cathode (spelled with a K, possibly due to coming from a Greek word which starts with a K, and to distinguish from caps or collectors which start with a C). To be honest whenever I put in LED's I usually check the LED polarity thread on the...

YMMV, and it does feel like a lot of money. For me, learning some things by independent research and by doing it myself works well. For other things, it doesn't work very well or at all. Music theory is one of those, for some reason it was very hard for me to learn, or maybe rather to find...

There's a new one out, "How to Design and Build Better Guitar Pedals: For Intermediate DIY’ers". It looks pretty interesting, not going to lie, but $125 (with the discount) for 6 hours feels like a lot? I dunno, I'm still considering it. I guess there is a 30 day money back guarantee if you're...

I use red and black like others, green for input and blue for output, and the rest for various other things (jumpers, switches or LED wiring if needed). Reasoning is that I just felt like it.

Ahh, I figured the uniform was a denim west and no pants 🤷‍♂️

Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't electrolytic caps polarized most of the time, while MLCC caps for example are non-polarized? Is it a decent rule of thumb that "it doesn't really matter if you switch them in this direction", or could there be instances where it makes a difference?

That's a positive for a lot of people, not a negative. I also for whatever reason used to hate doing the wiring for a 3PDT, but it's not bad once you've done it a few times. It's quite quick and easy.

FWIW I think often the CLR is on the anode side, because if you put it on the cathode and the LED is accidentally grounded from the leg before the CLR, it will burn, because that bypasses the CLR. If you put it on the anode side, the same thing can't really happen, so why not remove that small...

Just to add (while it might have been obvious), the SW goes to the Current Limiting Resistor, which goes to the LED, which then goes to the 9V supply (so the same place the battery + comes from). The power LED is not really a part of the pedal circuit, it's just hanging there by the side to...