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https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKX6pn1 With a little bit of finagling (and some much needed safety features added) these are a very compact, shockingly quiet HV supply for running tube preamps (and even power amps up to about 5w). I've been running them for a few years with zero failures

More signal out, which can change harmonics slightly as well as interact with any additional drive stages differently. We're talking like 0.2-0.3v of difference minimum needed before you'll notice anything, and even then having diodes with a different Fv knee is likely to make more of a...

You will not hear one iota of difference whatsoever. Use whatever looks coolest ;)

All done!

They are fully interchangeable. Your issue is elsewhere in the circuit

Alright, TIL about input/output compensation networks. Output was easy - a small value cap from pin 5 to out. Tried a few values while I had a sig gen/scope on, and about 47pf everything seemed to come good - about 3x the output and much less noise than without it. For the input, most examples...

After much messing around, I'm almost at the end of this one. Cliffs: Distortion+ish with NOS almost Soviet parts (all components from Tesla in the early 90's except for diodes which are D18 germaniums). Component values based around what I could get in suitable parts - different min/max...

Absolutely not lol

Well that makes a lot more sense - I've never seen anybody include the switch to short out the diodes! I've seen years of people stating including it (sans switch) lead to tonal differences that only they could hear, and used you as their evidence for it :LOL:

Basically nothing, unless your name rhymes with Saul Lochran

I may have cooked a little with this one. CD4049 charge pump, giving me about 58v from a 12v supply. Will probably run it off 9v as...well, you'll see. Less than 10mv of ripple while running it at 60khz; I did try getting to about 100khz, but the oscillator isn't as stable. Originally...

Anybody who claims they can hear a difference between carbon and metal film resistors (of the same value) is, at worst, a liar. Most of the mystique around vintage parts is most have massive tolerances, so an amp that sounds particularly good is likely caused by values being different from what...

What are you testing with?

A majority of analog pedals will draw 5-30ma, with a fair chunk of that normally being in the LED. https://stinkfoot.se/power-list

Seems to be TO220-5 and a pretty standard pinout - I'm sure you could use something like a LM1875 and it would work pretty much the same (not confirmed, just off a quick look at it)

If you know any hobbyist with a CNC, they are trivial to make - you just need to find somebody who is willing to do a small enough batch. Use PTFE for the most bougie ones available, or a 2.5mm A4 sheet of micarta will give you ~500 (I buy A4 sheets for $10). Despite what people think, you can...

PI is your best bet, but polycarbonate works in a pinch. Much higher working temperatures than anything printed, but still not anywhere near as good at machining it from PTFE or similar (which can't be laser cut due to the fumes coming off).

Laser cutting them would be much, much simpler - I've made a few subminiature tube sockets with machined Teflon and header pins, but laser is cheap and easy.

Yeah I figured that would be the case, but being able to keep high drive and low signal might be useful for driving the Muff thing after. You might be right with the pin out - I've just found a few with conflicting info, so might just test them to check I haven't done anything stupid

Rangemaster, not ring modulator. More just seeing if I missed something super obvious on the schematic upfront at this stage - I have a scope/etc but thought I'd start at the beginning to see if it was ever going to work on the first place