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I did make a concession to just use an on/on, but I don't think I'm missing out on too much variation in sounds available.

Red resistors are expensive :oops: Still gotta figure out how I'm going to do labels, but pretty happy with how this turned out. Precision Resistive Products 1% 100ppm resistors WIMA FKS2/MKS2 film caps Vishay Automotive MLCC's Würth ACAP Electrolytics Ignore the flux splatter on the board...

1N5817s work perfectly in this

Howdy, Planning a Sanguine, and as I hate painting I am going to get Tayda to drill/powder coat. I figure the hole spacings are gonna be in freedom units, so trying to convert over as best as I can. Can somebody please confirm the coordinates I'm using? If I convert the drill guide to a SVG...

That's what I thought. I had some board jank - I don't know if it was a manufacturing fault or I dicked something up while soldering, but the connection between Q3/Q4 was not going where it should be. Cut some traces, ran jumpers from R16 and suddenly everything works perfectly.

Actually, the more I play with this the stranger it gets. For somebody who has built one of these, does it add octave CW or CCW on the knob?

Yep, I've made dozens of pedals using that substitution and always flip it. Every function works except for the octave being noisy

Just finished a Parentheses Mini. Boxed up and although it sounds -good-, the octave side is just horrendously, horrendously noisy. PCB was populated with quality components (Nichicon electro's, X7R ceramics, etc), and is built as per the schematic except for a matched pair of BAT41's for the...