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Pin 8 should not be more than around 9v.. but you're getting 12v? What power supply are you using?

Do you have a multi meter? I would check what voltages you are getting at the 8 pins of the op amp. Put the negative lead on ground and tap the positive lead to each of the op amp's legs in succession and post here what your voltage readings are.

Okay, that's a step closer. Can you post a pic of the bottom of the board?

insert a plug into the jack and you'll see the metal on the top moves and breaks connection with one set of lugs

The only thing awkward about using connectors is pinning them. Have you tried using pin headers to connect the audio jacks and footswitch to the main board? And designing the boards such that they overlap

This thread is still showing up for me. Help, please?

I'm all for it. Try out both Soviet diodes in place of the Schottky. Hell that's how we learn

You can always go old school and map out a schematic on a breadboard and audio probe that. Hell, maybe you'd even learn something which might set you on track to understand the schematic. Then you wouldn't need AI to do the work for you!

I had a guy message me on reverb asking for something like the CTC Unobtanium. I sent him a few Dumble circuits and we settled on the Gladio single channel. He asked for a Fat switch for the Klon, which changes the value of C7 to something like 150nF. I haven't had the best luck with my primer...

I remember reading Tayda can drill irregular shaped holes, but I drill mine on my drill press at home after paint, as having the holes predrilled interferes with the way I paint them. I believe the larger Neutrik style jacks will work for 125b enclosures, and they are only 4mm closer together...

I finally had a chance to try out assembly, and it's a bust. I tried 3 different approaches - first was to pivot the board in, then I tried having the entire board slot into the top and then push forward so the audio jacks would seat, and lastly I tried opening up the audio jack holes into a...

How about an "ignore subforum" for that pesky Troubleshooting section??

Thank you. I'll sub them for films of the same value

I'm putting one of these together and came across C3, C4, and C100 & C101. C3 and 4 on the silkscreen are 220nF but have the footprint of small electrolytic caps. In the build doc they are listed as tantalum. I don't have 0.22uF tants but I do have 0.47uF. Can I use this instead? Are they just...

damn 3 week lead time for tayda enclosures gonna be up to 4 weeks smh

Hey nostradoomus, I hear you’ve been talking about AI and maybe wondering what it really means for you, so I wanted to take a moment to speak to you directly—clearly, honestly, and in as grounded a way as possible. AI isn’t here as something to fear or to replace the human experience that...

It's not that the high heat isn't necessary to melt solder - it isn't. But there is always going to be some heat energy lost in transmission when introducing the iron to the component/solder pad. Setting the iron to a high setting allows some of the heat to be lost while keeping the iron...

too soon

I put BAT41's in the last klon I built. As z2amiller mentioned, their curve is close to Ge and they're easier to buy and work with.

The signal path is the top part. The non-signal path is the bottom part, where the + and - interact. Carbon composite (not film) resistors are suppose to have a certain mellowness to the sound but only in old vintage tube amps where they have like 400 volts running thru them. They don't have...