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I tested removing the C4, C7, and C10 4.7nF caps. Almost nothing changes, but removing C7 seems to bring out a bit more high end. I guess i'll put in on switch anyway. I decided to use a switch for the 4.7uF and 470pF values on C6 to get a sort of smooth overdrive sound. I soldered all the...

Thanks, but you uploaded ".txt" files. I guess you mean upload .zip, right?

Hello, I built my own layout using the JHS schematic, and I’ve started testing some mods. I can only use an SPDT switch, so can't do all the mods I potentially could. - To get more high end, a switch can remove a pair of ceramic caps, changing the original 470pF value to 50pF. For some...

Yes, that helps, too.

Maybe we can open a new thread about that little red PCB, I already found a schematic to make it usable with guitar.

You're right. I'm asking not typical pedal PCB, rather something we don't build, usually. To be more clear, I'm planning to order this: Not a typical pedal PCB, just something I could never build from scratch. I'm curious if there's something I don't know that could be used to build an effect...

Thank you, guys! But I'm looking something rather something I can't build. So, no pedal or pedal kit. For that I prefer select parts and build by myself. I have some TDA2822, but I still never use. I have to. :rolleyes:

Hello everyone, I'm going to place my first order on AliExpress to buy a very cheap mini PCB compressor effect that I could use to make a pedal. Are there any PCBs on AliExpress that are worth considering? I know there are some PT2399 PCBs, but I don't need that. What else? Thank you.

Is this the veroboard layout? https://www.sabrotone.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/SplitterBlend.gif I never got if that was verified, so I built that on perfboard.

Musikding said the same thing about the Octarock Octave, even though I sent them the bill of materials I found on the forum.

I’ve always had some notes about the Magnavibe project, but I’ve never really trusted the LDR approach. I find it a bit tricky. Maybe we can talk about it in another thread if I can’t find a good solution. Thanks!

I was watching this demo again. I miss that kind of modulation, so I’ve been looking at the original Tim Escobedo schematic, and I’m wondering if the original sounds a bit too subtle. I redrew a verified veroboard layout to make it smaller for a 1590A enclosure. If two stages sound much better...

I consider the Red Llama a sort of fuzzish overdrive. Maybe the one with the tone control could be useful to tame the treble if needed.

Yes, maybe one or two different parts. Ok, thanks for your post. I'm just looking for something analog similar to the Green Ringer to put into a 1590A box and have some fun while I build it.

I was looking for an alternative circuit to the Green Ringer to fit into a 1590A enclosure. I followed the Tentacle schematic and it sounds fine. It's not very clean, but it has some grit, which is not bad.

Hi. If you change the feedback cap surely you can bright it up the boost. The original cap is a 5.6nF, thought the resistor in parallel is not so high, just a 10k. But I advice to test some value. Try a 1nF, and if it still sounds too much muddy for you ear try a ceramic smaller cap. The...

The descriptions of the six modes seems pure marketing and totally nonsense.

I didn't find the side of the PCB with the parts. Ok, that could be just a cap tone switch. But I see five cap and five resistor. We could assume something else?

Hello, sometimes I like to jump back to some of my old topics. Today, I’ve been thinking about the King Tone rotary switch for guitar, the Classic version. This is the link to the switch: https://www.kingtoneguitar.com/product/king-tone-switch/ It’s not a tone cap switch, but something that...

I’m taking a break to decide whether to build the version with the buffered voltage reference, as in the original JHS schematic and the Red Muffin Fuzz documentation.