Search results

Also if you have the power jack wired for “center negative” (-9v to center and positive ground to outer) you want to keep the battery wires as normal on the adapter or else you’ll be feeding positive voltage into the center of the jack. (Most likely what happened the first time)

The way you have it wired now sounds correct. Red wire to ground and black to -9v. Just make sure if you wire it to a power jack that the black -9v is wired to the center pin of the jack so its center negative. Also, you don’t need a charge pump unless you plan on daisy chaining it with other...

Sounds like Q1 is bad or there’s a trace that’s not connected. Before replacing Q1 I’d test the traces in that area for continuity. Happened to me on two different builds. Everything was perfect but just ended up with a defective pcb. Easy fix though. Not common but it happens.

If it’s not a solder joint try replacing the protection diode. When you test it again plug in only this pedal without daisy chaining. If you have a multi meter put it on the DC voltage function and measure the voltage after that diode. Soldering: just make sure you’re giving heat to both the...

For positive ground circuits the LED will be reversed. Long leg to “positive ground” (red) and short leg to “negative 9v” (black) With “positive ground” circuits you’re just reversing the positive and negative going into the pedal. I can’t tell from the pics if this pcb is specifically laid...

Idk, looking at the schematic I think what I listed is correct. There’s a few ways to wire a 3PDT but I’d trust the schematic over anything else. This way of wiring it is pretty much the same way Devi Ever did it. The gut shot is from a “Rocket” owned by another forum member. Looking at the left...

Think you’re right about the bad switch. I might be looking at this wrong but Isn’t the 3-6 jumper for ground connection? Lug 1 looks like the LED, Lug 2 ground, and lug 5 looks like the circuit input. If any of those weren’t making connection inside the switch during bypass the circuit input...

Turn both switches off. Looking at it from the gut shot check for continuity between lugs 8 and 9 of the “right” foot switch (the one below the 5mm clipping LEDs) Double check all the jumpers on both foot switches and check those for continuity too. My guess is the footswitch on the right side...

It’s lifting ground from the VFM side. It’s wired so that the Trem only works when the Trem switch is on AND the Soda Meiser is turned on. The trem sounds pretty bad by itself so the way it’s wired is really the only way it sounds good. The wire I circled is the extra ground wire going to the...

I’ve never paid any extra fees or costs ordering from Ukraine sellers. Just the cost of parts and shipping. Everything I’ve ordered from sovcom came quick and was exactly as advertised. Edit: well this post aged like warm milk. Lol. Haven’t ordered from Ukraine since the new tariffs but I’m...

You probably already know this but pretty much any of the Russian D9 series diodes work great as replacements for a 1N34A. I use the D9K mostly. They’re cheap and readily available on eBay from sellers in Ukraine.

The Syntheziser pcb is an exposed trace nightmare.

Here’s the mod for anyone who wants to add the Trem switch to their Moonn Electronics - Space Invader aka Devi Ever Rocket (Vintage Fuzz Master > Soda Meiser) 👾. It’s only a couple trace cuts, some jumpers and a SPDT switch. The mod is just cutting ground to the VFM side but the trem doesn’t...

Sorry it’s been a little while since I signed on here. If anyone still needs that list let me know.

If nothing else works I’d try checking for continuity between points that are supposed to be connected in the circled area. Idk if it’s really the right way to diagnose it but it worked for me once already when I had no idea what the issue was. It’s frustrating as heck when you know you did...

The switch is technically “backwards” but as you already know will be ok as long as you remember which way is which. If nothing else works for you try testing for continuity between points with a multimeter in this area of the schematic. It’s what I did and ended up finding the broken trace in...

Turns out the power supply I was using went bad 😂 And that’s why I never doubt Robert. Ever.

It doesn’t seem common. I’ve built a bunch of these and the only other one it happened on was the Dirt Dauber. Defective trace after the protection diode so nothing was being powered. So other than these two they’ve all worked perfect and sound great. These were the two traces on my board that...

Not sure if this could be the issue with how it’s acting but the gate on mine wasn’t working properly and it ended up being a broken trace under the solder mask. The pcb I got actually had two broken traces but once jumpered everything worked properly. It got me to start continuity checking all...

I believe only one of them is supposed to be on at a time.