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SW is using a pole to connect K to ground. If you’re going to use the CLR and LED on the LMS board, you’ll need to connect A (above the I/G/S/O to V+ on the LMS board. That will bring V+ to the 3PdT board and then should let you use the CLR/LED on the LMs board. There won’t be a connection...

Man, that is impressive a switch can roll from a 25W tube to a 40W tube. /scribbles notes furiously

Think of it this way (and I struggle with this): you learned what didn’t work, what happens when you break something, and you learned how to narrow down where there was a problem. I’d call that a pretty darn good first shot at building a pedal, specifically something that complex.

What I would do now is look at the voltages on the working side that connects to the LFO and then compare them to the non working side. My guess is things lit up because you might have bumped something, and I’ve done that by accidentally shorting something I shouldn’t have or bumping voltage...

Maybe just hook a piece of wire with two bare ends (shaped like a J) to temporarlily connect them together.

GAWRSH

Huh. Very strange. Good luck figuring it out. Or maybe your need a seance to remove the gremlins from your router.

Press and hold and the other reactions pop up. Mobile friends, untie!

So, where I circled is where 37B is supposed to connect to ground. If it connects to ground, awesome. It was a thought that maybe it wasn’t fully soldered in and was floating. Experiment: can you hook or alligator clip wire directly from the two ends of the resistor to the potentiometer lugs...

That seems logical. I'd try to reflow the solder and check again. Check to see if the 560ohm goes to ground. If it's still bad, maybe there's a bad trace. OR perhaps the depth pot went bad. At least you've narrowed it down to one spot.

For when you need them uber-sub-lows.

Nothing much. Probably lets a few more bass frequencies through that otherwise would be blocked by the 3.3uF

I kind of like the black line: reminds me of the cane weave fronts on Mesa Boogie amplifiers and cabinets. Speaking of, I need to find more cane weave for cabinet projects..... dang, it's expensive though.

If I can ever find time, I’m really interested in diving in. These explanations have been fantastic.

Mama Mia, that’sa lotta spaghetti. In all seriousness, if it works, it’s all good

It Weebles! It Wobbles! I’m sure I’ll knock it over. 5/5 board and project from AlephNull. Simple board layout, easy to follow instructions. Now, I made it harder by stuffing it in a 1590B. Everything is offboard wired, so not as easy - use a 125B if you want all the pots and switches mounted...

Going to go 5/5 on this, even though I had issues with parts - mainly caps a smidge too tall and then the 1uF SMD were fragile. I don’t have knobs yet, but wanted to post this for people building this to have a reference for internals. Robert has a great knack for having everything lined up...

What if you took a Tube Screamer, made it less nasal, and then added some filters to change the frequency of the mids, then added some LED clipping that you can adjust to taste with the soft clippers? Well, you’d have an Andromeda Deluxe. aionFX pcb, chickenwingaudio powder coated enclosure...

This thing is so much fun. A hot rodded fuzz face from Skreddy with transistors I tried out. Lower gain transistors — roughly in the 120-250hfe that sounded good to me. No gut pictures because there’s a couple nicked caps from the soldering iron. It is quite a bit brighter than most fuzzes...

1. 2 prong to 3 prong and remove death cap — yes, very much yes. 2. Bias resistor? Maybe. You’d have to check what your voltages are inside the amp (SAFELY OF COURSE) to determine if you need to adjust bias. BUT, the 6v6 is pretty robust. Mids resistor? Maybe, but that’s the charm of Fender...