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Thanks everyone (y) Now I can’t get “one fish two fish red fish blue fish” out of my head.

I’ve used these as starters: https://www.pachydermpedals.com/tutorials/templates/#pedalpcb There’s a 3 knob (and more) on that page.

I’ve been fiddling with filters lately and I don’t own a phaser (weird, right?). So I thought, “These are big and complicated. That probably means they’re the best.” Well, they are definitely complicated! Artwork is Tayda UV printing with gloss. I used Inkscape for design and Scribus for...

No. I don’t even buy circuit boards anymore. I have all the pedals I need… hold up… is that a 15% coupon? I’ll be right back.

Yes. When mine sits, the nozzle vertical home drifts like crazy. I suspect cats using it as a trampoline during the night.

I have an Ender 3. No music related projects, just Pokémon figures and hot wheels racetrack parts for my kids. There’s a bit of a learning curve regarding bed leveling, nozzle and bed temperatures, slicer settings, etc. It took me about 4 weeks to figure it out and get prints to consistently...

https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/5lb-bag-of-fuzz-batxx.12456/

The wiki has diagrams for multiple wiring and order switching (for 2, but 3 is the same idea) https://wiki.pedalpcb.com/wiki/Main_Page For parallel wiring, check this thread. @Pauleo1214 is the master blender around here...

Also, I can’t see the power jack. Is it wired correctly?

Seasick whale song. I didn’t know whales could get seasick, but here’s proof.

That’s series-ously sick. Did you finally run out of buff-n-blenders?

Looking at the spec sheet, they look the same except for the max voltage. So the 337 should work the same as the 338.

@Budius You are correct, D1 and D2 are for the octave circuit. They need to be there for the octave to work. D8 and 9 are the “extra” clipping options with the rotary switch.

I like how the Destroyer is wide aspect, so you used the full picture including the airship. Also, since they are traveling to my left, does that mean they already found the riff filled land, and are coming back??

@BuddytheReow I didn’t think about an LPB. A fun little project might be to build both the LPB and the Bazz Fuss. Then try running them into each other in both directions.

Build a Bazz Fuss fuzz. It only has 6 components, and I found a follow along video. Article on the circuit: http://home-wrecker.com/bazz.html Step by step breadboard build:

This is how I would break it down: 1. What do I want to make? 2. What topology do I want to use? 3. What's the detailed design? for example: 1. What do I want to make? A dirt pedal with a weird ass filter hooked to it. Filter before or after the dirt? I don't know, that could be an...

Also check to see if the cathode wire is grounding against the led holder, or a stray wire strand, or a blob of solder, etc. The switch should be breaking the cathode ground connection to turn it off. So my guess is the switch is broken and ON all the time, or the led is grounded on some other...

Here are two links to explain the probe and how to use it. Basically, it lets you walk through the circuit until the signal dies. http://diy-fever.com/misc/audio-probe/ https://www.diypedalgearparts.com/en/novita/26_Audio-probe-how-to-build

I did the same thing with the Arkaim fuzz. You still get the same max volume if you crank it, but it stops going BAM!!!INYOURFACE!!! as soon as you crack the volume knob. Now, I’m always suspicious of pedals with linear volume pots and switch to taper if needed.