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I think something's wrong around VREF. Pin 3 and 5 of IC2 (middle) are both tied directly to VREF and they're showing 3.5V instead of something around the 4.7V mark I'd expect at 1/2 of 9.45V. Pin 3 of IC1 (right) is also tied to VREF through a 1M resistor and is only 1.16V which would muffle...

Pictures of the soldered side would be helpful (though of course kind of difficult to see everything with the pots in the way). Pot in bottom right of picture looks suspiciously soldered. (Middle pin may not be making contact). Dunno if that'd cause those specific issues or not. Really all...

I was trying to to figure this out, too - I think what it means is that in the "classic" BBDs there are two separate clock pins that step back and forth, leading to potentially more complicated offboard circuitry, where this chip just has a single clock pin that expects a square wave input...

If the BoM doesn't specify, it's probably fine. You could socket the transistor if you _really_ wanted to try to tune it, but for most pedals, something in the general vicinity of the gain range will be fine. There are some designs where it's important to have one transistor with less gain...

Regarding the transistor, the letter at the end of the transistor often indicates the gain range of the transistor. Manufacturing transistors is somewhat inexact and the gain can have a pretty large range of values. Manufacturers will do 'binning' where they test parts from each batch and sort...

I think your vref is off. Looking at R12 and R13, they should be the same value (47k) but the multiplier bands look like different color - R12 looks like it might be 47K (Yellow Purple Black Red Brown) and R13 looks like 4.7k or even 470R, the lighting is not great (Yellow Purple Black...

Have you tried it out of the enclosure, like just moving the input wire out of the way? (Rather than going thru the hassle of shielded wire). I think that'll help figure out whether or not shielded wire would help. I think running near/over the 9v rail is probably ok, though maybe not...

@Reconciledheart I did play around with this on the breadboard a bit this weekend for funsies, with a bipolar supply (+9/-9V). I got as far as the main gain stage, I haven't gotten through the whole tone stack part yet. I might try it again next week with a unipolar supply + vref to keep the...

With an audio probe, can you see where the hum starts? It might be helpful to find where the hum starts so you know where to focus your efforts. I think you could keep more of the backside routing on the top to keep a more continuous ground plane on the back (e.g. it looks like vref could be...

I played around with this a bit, trying to make it a unipolar supply (just +9V) which looked reasonable given the clipping diodes in the main gain stage anyway. (caveat: I have no idea what I'm doing) When I simulated it in kicad I got all kinds of trouble, tho, but I'm not sure how much of...

Install KiCad and download a bunch of build docs. Transcribe some schematics and practice doing your own layout! (Start with something easy like a Zendrive clone or a Acapulco Gold clone. (Put that learning to practical use! It's harder for me, at least, to just book read without also Doing...

I learned this the kind-hard way when I replaced the LED inside of one of those kids nightlight ceiling projectors with an addressable RBG LED with a microcontroller to cycle colors. It looked cool up close but would project a distinct red,blue,green shape offset from one another on the ceiling.

Yeah - I mentioned this in my guide - when you're looking for components you can filter on 'Economic'. I've also noticed that with electrolytics, there are some of them that will bump your board to standard assembly. I'm not 100% sure what the reason is, but I suspect that it has something to...

I haven't used the search tool within EasyEDA, but using their parametric search: (https://jlcpcb.com/parts/all-electronic-components - and checking the 'basic' and 'promotional extended' boxes) C6961: TL072CDT C7426: NE5532DR C7433: OP07CDR C7950: LM358DR2G C18229: LM2904DR2G (and a couple...

That's the right way to measure. It does look like your chip is not getting power, and as a matter of fact nothing may be getting power. +1 to checking the jack wiring and/or the reverse polarity protection diode. (D1) Eyeballing the circuit, you should be getting pin1-3: ~4.5V +/- 1v...

Looks awesome! Stick with the SOIC-8's vs SOP-8's, I misspoke in the original post - it's all SOIC-8 that are the 'basic' op-amps. For the Q-Tune I imagine you're probably assembling enough of these ( >= 50 ) that you're into 'Standard' assembly anyway so you don't need to worry as much about...

Yep - I listed it in my guide, it's the Bouni plugin for Kicad. It lets you do the parts assignment as a separate step.

I think it's this -- that once you've added the first through-hole part, you're paying $3.50 setup fee and then per-joint for as many other through-hole components that you have. There might be some caveats with oddball parts that push the design into a 'standard' assembly but I haven't run...

Ah - yeah sometimes the components do dumb things and get rotated. My upload/export plugin corrects some of the rotations automatically but doesn't always catch everything. You can select it and then rotate it w/ the space bar until it sits right. Make sure you check the orientation of other...

Honestly, those tips don't look too bad and it sounds like you're keeping them clean. It's possible that they're garbage tier and the tinning isn't taking. You might be keeping them _too_ clean - you want a little bit of melted solder on the tip, the melted solder helps to melt other solder...