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I had a similar problem on a FSH I built a while back (Madbean Sharkfin PCB), but for me, the LFO ticking only came through in bypass. Like yours though, it was only on the sample/hold side. I always suspected that it actually had to do with the rate LED. You could try disconnecting that and...

Cool! Which ge transistors are those G.E.s you've got there? I have some old 2n1305 that look like that.

Ah, that makes sense about the BAT46! Also, thanks for clarifying about the 300-500k. I wasn't sure what was a good starting point for saying leaky or not...

Just wanted to report back that I finally got some time to try this out according to Chuck's methodology. Interesting results! A couple of old 1n279 that I have measure at 1m or just below in reverse. The best I had beyond that was a 1n60 (O.G. ge, not Schottky like the 1n60p) at about 300k...

Yes! Jubal81 started started that thread I talked about back in the day, and now here he comes with a G2 on the breadboard. Thanks to Jason and Chuck for steering this in the right direction...now I've got to try this out myself.

I feel like I remember reading that you have to measure resistance across the diode one way, and then the other. The higher "reverse resistance", the less leaky the diode is. It's jubal81 who frequents these parts who would be able to explain what I'm talking about. I've actually been meaning to...

Oh yeah, same sparkle technique as the flanger you did back then! Seems like anything that's modulation and has a flashing indicator would fit the bill.

Love the theme! I was obsessed with this movie back when I was seven or so. Watched it with my daughters and they thought it was hilarious. This is still my favorite phase circuit.

I would probably put it before the IC, maybe just wired between your DC jack and where 9v goes into the board. Your collector voltages look fine to me. I can tell they're probably not that leaky except for Q3. I would imagine the volume knob cleanup with your guitar is good given the Q2 voltage.

Youch! ;) I see what you mean.

I've built a couple of MkIIs and they tend to get this oscillation with the fuzz up all the way when the circuit is getting a full nine or more volts. In my case, since I built them on vero, I just went with a slightly "broken in" battery (around 8.5v) and it sounds great. What kind of power...

Yes! I totally remember the original Whisky River. I was kind of scared to take one of those builds on due to the voltages, etc. But man, that was a cool project.

That's awesome that you mentioned the Supersuckers! I'm pretty sure I've never heard them come up in a DIY build report before. ;) Now of course I will need to hunt down a demo of this circuit as it was totally not on my radar!

Looks great! How do you like this circuit? I've been waiting to see a real live build report before jumping on the PCB. Always liked the way the original sounded, just wondering if it's picky about either the germanium or the JFET.

These look great and probably sound that way too! On your MkIII, don't sweat the Q3 bias too much. If you're getting in the neighborhood of 4v on the collector, I can tell that's because you used a low-leakage transistor. In this circuit, I've tried leaky ones, non-leaky ones, and even simulated...

These are so much fun! Love to see gut shots as well...

Cool! Try it out and let me know if it works.

I bet the base and collector need to be swapped...sometimes those Russian transistors have unexpected pinouts! If you try it, just make sure you insulate the two legs you have to cross over each other with some wire casing left over from stripping or something like that.

Super classy Jason! This looks like a fun one to try out.

I think Aion's version replaced the traditional boatload of 10uf electro caps with 1uf film, similar to the Madbean version. So I think Fuzzdog and PedalPCB's are more in line with the original schematic. I know what you mean about the footswitchable octave--I did that on mine and I had maybe...