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Our 3d printers had heads that a long ribbon attached to, which moved around like crazy. After about a year (of probably 8hrs per day) I began having weird print failures that I de idea were cable issues. I found (pretty sure it was Mouser) some mil spec silicon ribbon cable, and bought enough...

The Keen method works really well, SMD will be a bit of a challenge, but doable. The pedal is great, worth the effort. Get some liquid flux (the type that comes in a pen is ideal for this) and put that on the circuit board pads before you place the SMT. Put a small dab of solder on your iron...

I can’t help you, but if you’re not familiar with General Tso (Thorpy fat general) it’s a lovely, subtle always on type.

Couldn’t help you with mixing lead free and leaded, although my gut wants to say that shouldn’t make a difference. I always make sure I leave a big blob of solder on the tip whenever it’s sitting around for more than a few minutes, and always before I turn it off. I pretty much avoid lead free...

https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/protoboard/ Look no further!

Watch out Florida!! A new storm heading in

That’s a great looking oat milk latte ya got there!

I did a double take at how India pale ale worked a good solder cleanser, then, (metaphorically) slapped my head. When I’ve run into solder plane issues (getting solder to flow), I’ve been able to help things along a bit with warming up the board. Initially I placed it near the incandescent...

In an odd way though, I remember the first few “small company” (before “boutique” was a thing) (HBE, Red Witch, Dr. Scientist, etc.) pedals that I bought, and thinking there was something nice about the fact that they came in plain cardboard boxes, with obviously laser printed instruction...

What font was it? That seems to be the major variable. (Not speaking from Tayda experience, but as someone that produced output for graphic designers for many years.) @Paradox916 has the correct answer. Even super popular fonts like Helvetica have many variants, both in letters and kerning, so...

The outer ring of contacts are positions, and the inner contacts are the poles. (On a toggle switch, the center contact is the pole, with the outer contacts the positions.) Many rotary switches allow you to limit the rotation of the knob, so the same switch could potentially be anywhere from 2...

That’s great news! After the coming bot revolt, maybe they’ll let this site continue!

It's funny, because of the design I figured it was based on a Boss pedal, and then saw that the NE-7 was the Boss 7 band. And I've been out of the pedal building hobby for a while (just taking a break!) I didn't realize that the post title was the PCB name—Boy, Robert has BEEN BUSY! And. as...

I wasn't familiar with the NE-1, so I just did a bit of research to confirm my guess. Short answer—no, they do different things (although the Mercurial might be able to closely imitate what the NE-1 does. Mercurial is a boost, with a tunable notch filter. You pick a center frequency, and then...

Thanks! For some reason, the search function isn’t

I’m not finding any info on the Eunuch variant (truly great name)—was this a pcb or a mod for the Skeptical?

Yeah, that’s the one! I never thought I’d want more friction in my pedal. (He gives directions on how to add a bit of drag.) Squeak free, multiple pot curve simulations, limiters, the works.

It’s so dependent on what type of music you play, and if it’s with others, what instruments they’re playing. I’m solo 95% of the time. And I have been enjoying a way over the top number of pedals—like enough so that 2 CIOKs DC7s ran out of juice. Then, just 2 weeks ago, I decided to pare it down...

Yowsa! Really nice work!

Paint stores have “TSP substitute”, that I dilute and use as a spray cleaner for greasier stuff around the house. It’s a very effective degreaser, and relatively safe. For paint prep, I’d still do at least a quick wipe with alcohol or mineral spirits. Sanding is fine, but it doesn’t get rid of...