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It works!

I got my first circuit in the mail today. We’ll see if it works tonight.

I just finished building a Radium Springs. I noticed there’s not a lot of demos out there for it so I added one. I really enjoyed building it and to me the pedal sounds great! Perfect for what I needed. I had some big ambient reverbs already but wanted something more subtle and ampy for faster...

It took me a minute, but finally found it. Net 2 was ground in my case.

I have a question about DipTrace. I’m very new to this. How do I ensure nodes intended for grounding get connected to the poured copper ground plane. See video explanation.

For the PCB boards, I used to buy the little tubes of solder at Home Depot but decided to save money and switch to this stuff from Amazon...

I downloaded DipTrace today and started messing with it. I don’t know if I’ve done this right, but here is my first schematic. A couple questions… 1. When I go to setup the layout for the PCB design, do I need to wire all the ground points together or does the software assume that for me and...

This seems to have solved my issue. The result was the same with or without the parallel 100nF cap so I omitted that part of it. Here is a video of the result. Thanks.

Schematic

(At one point I say 680K and meant 680R.)

Do you happen to know of a way to test how much current a pedal needs? I have a nice multimeter, but not sure if it can test that. (I think the Electra circuit requires very little but I don’t know.)

I haven’t tried it yet, but will if I can’t get it fixed on the board. I’m trying to think of what the difference would be that a PedalPCB board might have in its treatment of power that neutralizes the issue. Part of me wants to say “oh well, use a different power supply”, but since I want to...

My neighbor who happens to be an electrician told me he used lead his whole career and it never gave him any problems. He’s retired now. So, the dangers can’t be that bad, although I’ve done no research on it. I may look it up and see what I find.

I’ve read that workability is a big factor. I have noticed that compared to leaded, the lead-free stuff flows much quicker, like water almost, once it gets going, but takes more heat to get it to convert to a liquid. That makes it difficult to keep from bulging on the side of gravity. It also...

I use a separate iron w a flat tip and run it hotter which seems to help. I use the thicker solder on hardware wiring and the tiny stuff (0.6mm) on the board. I’d change up what I’m doing if it would be best long-term. Wondering if the electrical connection is as good. I’d “think” the lead-free...

I was wondering if it is ok to sell pedals w lead. I think in Europe it is banned but not sure about small runs and boutique builds.

I may have to return my purchase for the lead stuff.

Do you prefer lead or lead-free solder? I’ve been using 60/40 for the PCB pads and lead-free for the hardware. (Two separate irons too so they don’t cross-contaminate.) I was at Home Depot getting more of the larger solder and noticed they also had 60/40 lead solder in that size. I wasn’t sure...

New at this, but that would keep the voltage traveling in the right direction, correct?