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That looks amazing! I've only ever built on tag or turret board, never PCB for an amp. I'm a tinkerer though so turrets really suit me. If I was to build something where I was certain of parts values something what you have done here would be killer. As for drilling tube socket holes, you...

That makes sense. I really wondered where it was used!

I think there comes a time when we all could use some BAT41s. I should have said - lovely job as always Michael. I wouldn't mind trying this one - I love the LPD68.

This surgical tubing we all use in Fender style guitars - is it really surgical? Where do surgeons use it? Is it what they use in a triple bypass surgery?

If you see how the original Timmys were made you'll see that it was easy to solder one end of each diode to the board and just twist all the other ends together and solder 'em together. Maybe it was a time-saving thing that sounded "subtly better"?

Saul Lochran?? I went to school with him! Damn... I wonder how he's doing?

And here's me just using BAT41s wherever it says to use Ge diodes..

Even better then! As long as they sound good silicon is even better than Ge in my book.

And the MID pot in a Super is 10K. I like the Marshall tone stack better!

BTW if anyone wants to make a four knob version of this I can verify that the tone stack I posted above works perfectly. It sounds like the regular version with MID at just past noon, which is where I park it most of the time. Same principal as a Deluxe Reverb tone stack Vs a Super Reverb Trem...

From building amps I have seen this kind of tone stack a lot! The .022µF caps, the 500-ish pF treble cap, the 33K slope resistor - these are all Marshall changes to the '59 5F6-A schematic. Marshall altered the 56K slope resistor and 250pF treble cap of the 5F6-A Bassman schematic to fatten up a...

And thanks for the updated version. I will obviously have to try that one too!

I find the MID control fairly mild - I don't really like it below noon. I'm even planning on trying a version with a fixed mid. Chuck, Would this work?

Any clues as to what the Chinese looking writing says?

As long as it works! FWIW I don't care for transistor sockets because they can often become loose IME. But I wouldn't worry about the look of the transistors as long they work. For one thing once the pedal is buttoned up you don't see them, and for another the neatness of your builds makes them...

Wow - I LOVE the enclosure graphics! Some of you guys go to some lengths to make your pedals look good. I'm very much from the @MichaelW school of discerning minimalism. FWIW I bought both types of transistor for this circuit from Mouser. Odd that you couldn't get them. Maybe they sold out...

I try to say simply what I like to do. Not trying to tell anyone what to do - and in saying what I like to do I like to give a reason to explain. There's (probably) more than one way to skin a cat. I dunno - never skinned one, and I'm not about to start. I think building pedals is fun which is...

I use BAT41s instead of Ge all the time. They're a lot more robust. I like to pair a single BAT41 with a 1N4148 or 1N4001 as clipping diodes too. Experimenting with clipping diodes in a circuit you know well can be eye opening.

Does it have to be a PCB? The BJF designed Baby Blue OD is a fantastic fuzzy drive which works particularly well with Marshalls. I've posted a Vero layout for it in the Vero section if you're interested.

The best way to solve the gain issue would be to just use an A500K instead of a B500K IMHO. Or even an A250K. But your solution should do the trick. And I second @phi1 's idea. Both mods would make the OD easier to use. Glad it worked out! You're a good friend.