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Okay, here we go. New 2n5457. Have sound through the pedal! But it’s really really muffled. So far, I have the clocks and frequency calibrated, but I’m still losing audio/minimal output right around Q1. I did replace the diodes, checked the resistors, etc. I had just temporarily put the 2n5457...

I’ll see if I can get them tomorrow. I’m starting on the Flintlock Flanger first. Progress, but still beating my head.

Update: still weird. I’ll post more, but with no regulator in, all 3 pins get full voltage. Voltage divider doesn’t hit 4.5V. Putting in the new regulator outputs nothing. This is a weird one. I’m thinking it’s coming down to the Audio Ground and Digital Ground needing to be tied together at...

Oh yeah, the “idiot screwed something up”: I didn’t get one of the ICs seated correctly in the socket. 3 pins had bent over

Welp, after moving from the swear words to “jeez, the idiot overlooked something”, I have stumbled upon a functioning ODR-C from AionFX. Quick testing straight into a power amp (I know, I know) sounds darn good. It’s not YATS - there’s a LOT more going on. It cleans up nice, the...

The tight fit’s like, your opinion, man. (The graphics and knob choice are fantastic)

As long as it’s a 3.3V regulator, it’ll work. I really appreciate it. You guys are the bestest. At least my mistake can be guidance for others.

I believe so. I swear I double/triple/quadruple checked pinouts and the board

Welp, went to the data sheet: yep matches what’s on board. So I pulled it and put it on a breadboard temporarily. Come to find out pinout is reverse on mine from data sheet. So, that’s a plus. Downside: no extras. Probably going to use one of my bigger 78l05 and then make a voltage divider to...

Okay, so this past weekend I’ve been batting 0 fer every single dang pedal. But this one has me a bit stumped. When I take out the diode from the DC (which goes to the 3.3V regulator), I get normal voltage but obviously nothing to the rest of the pedal. If I reverse it, I get about 9V on the DC...

I nuked the mn3207. I can get sound through the pedal with a MN3007, but only if I jumped from the band of the diodes over past the FET. Also, I can only get the frequency from 69.9k to about 2.2Mhz. But I think my meter is butt, so might have to roll with it. I replaced the 1M (r24) and the r22...

Yep. Did that. Might just do a bit of adjustment by ear with the 22k/FET/1M section until it works.

Okay, bumping this back up. I can hear flanging, but it’s distorted (hasn’t been calibrated). If I short out r22 (22k which feeds into the gate), I get sound and passes through. Voltages seem to hover at all pins of the FET (J113) about 6.5-7.0V. The 1M that connects the drain and source...

I don’t have a picture currently, but I smashed a red llama and a tubescreamer with a 6 way rotary diode selector + series/parallel switch (works-ish) in a 1590DD. The tubescreamer boosting the red llama sounds really good. PS you don’t want sound clips from me. I don’t just stink at playing: I...

From what I’ve read, yes. That site you download the “patches” and then you’ll need a way to put them on an EEPROM via a programmer. I think I got it right, based on what I’ve read.

I usually get hung up on builds because I’m a dingus and forget a part. (looking at you TL071 I forgot to order).

Well, if you don’t want it, I’ll take it off your hands. :) But yeah, Hydra/Arachnid. Link to a major library of fv-1 patches: Patches

Darn you two, now I want to find a way to build a guitar with Zcoils. (Mumbles incoherently while getting back to the ginormous backlog of pedals)

Usually I can troubleshoot okay-ish, and have a Flange with No Name board working, but this one is stumping me. I’ve ran an audio probe through the circuit: step 1, passes through with bypass off. step 2, I lose audio in the circuit. My goal was to make sure the audio portion worked before...

Thanks. I’ll see what I can dig up