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Hm.. I think a photo will be needed after all - show a close-up of the transistor adapter boards. It can be a board without a transistor, it's about the pinout.

C10 is optional, should not affect normal operation. Is it the same when you desolder the LED? or desolder IN/OUT/GND/SW wires from main pcb?

I know that picture is worth thousand words but here we prefer measurements.. Time to measure some voltages. Take the multimeter, set to DC Voltage, then - black probe to GND, red to marked points.

Cnc...? Using "regular" metal stamps is possible for single letters, or for punching out letters one after another. If you put several stamps together to form a word, the space between the letters is quite large. You can probably order custom stamps with whole words, but I have no idea how much...

Make sure R16 is 33k. Should be orange-orange-black-red, but to me it looks like orange-orange-black-brown which is 3k3.

So now you can: - inspect the pcb.. is there any missing solder joint? Or maybe cold solder joint? - resolder those two solder joints - if above fails - you can solder some wire bridge between pin 6 and R17.

Make sure you have a continuity between pin 6 of the IC1.2 and R17. Same with R17 and pin 1 of the Gain pot. Then Pin2 of the pot and IC1.2 out.

Not strictly pedal related, but definitely helpful info.

I had a similar feeling for a moment. These photos are very sterile. Zero imperfections.

In my opinion, it's more like acrylic/plexiglass with a brushed top layer, 1.0-1.5mm thick. This one looks like screen printed. A bit different angle of the Antique V3.

I have a limited experience with UV printing but the edges of the pattern and letters are so sharp and crisp. Is this possible with stacked layers of the ink? Same with the letters - except that they also feel like they are embossed. But maybe this slight convexity of the letters is due to...

How about reverse laser engraved acrylic plate?

https://www.cornerstonemusicgear.com/product/antique3/

Yeah, extra fee for the castellated holes is usualy high. I needed castellated holes on the outside edge of the pcb. Below is my workaround - a hole on a protruding piece of "temporary wing" from the laminate. I scored the hole with an xacto blade (both sides) and then removed the excess with...

Quite long but interesting

1..2..3.. breadboard time. It works, reacts to knobs.. all good. A bit late for normal playing so more testing tomorrow.

It probably won't be easy to find one, especially in the case of MMBFJ201. I expect that with such a high Idss Vp will be around 1V. I don't think I've come across such a piece in smd.

Lovely! :) Question about these threaded inserts - what are they? Self clinching rivet nuts?

Most of my projects don't have switches so I mount the potentiometers by eye (using a caliper or ruler to set the height above the pcb). If I have to - I use a piece of hdf (3mm thick) with holes for potentiometers and switches.

I first make sure everything works, test the circuit, play it a bit, and only then drill or make the enclosure. I have a lot of projects that ended at the pcb stage because for some reason I changed my mind. It's a shame to waste the enclosure :)