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Actually, if you read around, I think one being a bit wimpier than the other is par for the course. Is on mine. Is this what you're seeing?

[OH, DAMMIT! This is for a circuit without c11 and c12 at 10nf, see below.] I guess this could go in build reports or mods, but I'll just continue here. The stock bluebeard (with 220uf-100uf power cap as the only mod) is solid. I'm not sure exactly why folks see it as the bass ne plus ultra...

Here is the schematic, by the way.

I concur with @falco_femoralis. I had actually typed "diode situation suggests a ground fault." What about C3, though? Isn't that the cap you kludged up? Could be an incomplete solder/solder crack or second component leg going awry. Kludgery usually involves a greater danger of...

Sounds like the issue is in or around the 1st half of the IC, since you have signal going into 3--off of R9? Couldn't see if R9 is 100k, btw. You can also try jumpering between connections to see if a trace is dead. What's puzzling is that apparently it worked. What would stop the signal at...

Ah, but it did work, you said. If it did, and it sounded good as you say, your circuit is okay, the fault is probably in a connection or a short. For me, those generally happen at the 3pdt or at the jacks. There is a bit of blobby soldering between the pots, there, but probably it's not the...

You need pics, my dude. Both sides, including the off-board wiring. Also in box. If it's working out of box, then most likely it's shorting on the enclosure, or there is a stray unwanted contact. You have pot dust covers?

After a recent "like" on this thread, just thought I would update. Never did get a reply. Dead letter. Oo. Good name for a pedal.

Diffuse is definitely a delay governing the gap between the initial signal and the onset of the reverberated signal similar to what goes on in the ghost echo. CCW= virtually no gap, CW = noticeable pause before reverb. And if you turn it and play, it gives a very nice evocative/...

To me, I love all the crazy little artifacts. Like what happens when you turn the diffuse knob while playing. I think the key knobs that really affect the pedal's behavior are in ascending order of importance, length (obvs), drag, and reflect. And mix. With mix at less than noon, you can...

But your off-board wiring stays oh-so fine... I also built this and I'll have to go check, but I think mine was a good ole 2n169 that won the covered germanium slot. I do like the pedal quite a bit, especially with the bass control cranked. Pretty excellent low and slow tones

You'd have better results in the troubleshooting forum I think. No ICs in this build. Could be useful to know what transistors you're using. You can measure voltages on the legs. The Wima cap on the left is also pretty badly melted, which could compromise the signal (haven't checked the...

Hahaha maybe too close to home

I think this might be relevant to more than a few people here: https://www.reddit.com/r/diypedals/s/TqhE6dEoiC

Just for posterity's sake, I found this pretty interesting page by Coda Effects. Don't know if Coda the user here is related or no, but... there it is. https://www.coda-effects.com/2015/11/big-muff-mods-and-tweaks.html

Oops--Yeah, that's what I meant, sorry. I was reading big muff circuit analysis while typing.

Since we have 4 dimensions of futzing here, do you all recommend a standard order of setting operations that can be productively employed before I dive in randomly? Like, set coupling caps>filter caps>transistor biasing>diodes?

Forgive the ignorance. By filter caps, you mean C2, 5, and 8 (the 470pf?) or the caps in the tone section (c10/11)?

Obviously I breadboarded to futz around with the circuit. For those who have futzed with muffs, particularly in the bass persuasion-- any recommendations to try? Right now I have 5088s in for Q1-4 and 1N4148s for the clippers.

Look what I made for the muffin board