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I may be tempted...

They've been mangled with a dremel by the looks of it. Should be fairly easy to work out the chips from a quick trace of their pin outs.

Ibanez FL-99, Boss HF-2, MXR Micro Flanger. 'bout it for accessible projects. Also, why did Cool Audio never continue production of this or at least make it available to anyone other than MXR... I just don't get it.

Wondered what happened to this, hope life isn't giving you too much grief. I'd be surprised if it was 13kHz to 570kHz, 130kHz seems more likely. As it's just a standard triangle op-amp LFO driving an LED you can use any LFO and clock you like really... as long as the clock is fine running off...

Well, I wouldn't say planned but you know how it is in the heat of the soldering... sometimes it just flows a little too quickly. I know absolutely nothing about the mattress or monktress so any of that business is between other people.

Hey, we took a paternity test! But no, I don't much care for what I've seen of the Buffalo stuff either.

I'd say it probably depends on how willing you are to settle for good instead of perfect, you can build most any optical DIY build without matching unless it's specified or you're trying to replace a dual vactrol with two singles in specific circuits... the Mutron III would be an example of a...

Just to mention, 10kHz won't net you 550mS, you're closer to 400mS, 7.5kHz gets you in the 550mS range. Otherwise, nice build :)

Sorry, I've just realised I sent you on a wild goose chase, the vibrato wave should be a little bigger than the chorus. I think be sure you haven't got any wrong values for R3-6 and then wait until you get the new CD4011 and see if it clears matters up. VR should be 7V5 plus or minus a bit.

So if D4 & 5 were disconnected, I'd expect a vibrato wave bigger than the triangle so... broken trace, dodgy diodes, iffy solder joints are things you should be looking at.

The LFO won't work with a TL072. I really don't think the problem is LFO tick, it's more a VCO tick... obviously the LFO's swing does impact the amount of control voltage though and the swing does differ between chorus & vibrato mode. Notice how your vibrato mode clock is higher than chorus...

So the thump is probably less LFO tick and more the BBD thumping when the clock goes wonky. Quickly try tacking some small caps in parallel with C1 & 2 (22pF or something) to see if getting the max clock frequency down will stop it overshooting, it is a little high, may be down to the chip...

8.6V x 2 minus two diode losses and charge pump inefficiency is let's say... 16.2V and the regulator needs at least 17V to do its job. That'll probably be your issue.

Check your values and polarities first and foremost, also depth should be measured at the middle leg of the depth pot, sounded more like you were measuring it on the LFO op-amp output. See what your clock frequencies are as well while you're there.

Hooray! What are the noise levels and headroom like? Are they as poor as the datasheet indicated or was it being conservative?

Guardians said it had a volume drop, fixes that without impacting the frequency response.

That was just your Art Nouveau period, now you've moved on to minimalism.

You make it sound so secret! And it is, if any one uses these new values, I'll have to torture Guardians with the soft cushions and the comfy chair. Just reduce R8 & 27 equally to keep the mix/feedback levels right so R8 would become 100k and R27 54k6 but you can probably get away with 56k...

Can anyone explain this thunking to me? I assume it's in time with the rate but does it disappear with depth? Does increasing any of the controls make it more apparent? Has anyone bothered to check what the voltage offset is like on the phase stage op-amps?

For what it's worth, I saw someone on Modwiggler tried to play with this chip and found the chip wouldn't function with a less than optimal duty... which makes one sort of wonder why they didn't just put a flip-flop instead of an inverter inside the chip. Also, don't know if it's of any use but...