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Are there some better headers? I used the Tayda in the viib and they seemed a bit loose. Worked fine, but I would have liked a tighter fit. (No silly comments please)

Try an auto center punch then a single sized bit such as a 1/16th for every hole. Then work up to the correct size for each part.

Does the tone control do much? Cannot hear much of any change. Used 20k for both of the 25k pots due to only having them at the moment.

Tried a couple different relays. Both seem to work. Tayda item A-1169 and NEC Japan EA2-5SNJ.

Bump. To see if bipolar matters?

What is the print cost at amplifyFun?

Bumping this. The art within the BOM shows same direction also. Might want to update? Might be helpful also to note the 1uf caps need to be thin within the BOM.

I show seven 1uf caps on the BOM

Any issues with using BP caps for all the 1uf caps?

Is there any chance of adding a measurement marks within your drill layouts? It is helpful to know if the printer put it out 1to1. Something to note the length and the width?

The harbor freight one is okay for everything but the crank table. Don’t know why one would need a crank table for a small unit, but I have used one for approx 15y and have drilled through all imaginable materials. Mine drills nicely still. Drilled many etched doubled sided without alignment issues.

I snoozed on the relay while building up an order due to shipping fees. Is there another replacement for the relay?

A few more questions if you don’t mind. Did you use a 470k trimmer or a 500k? Did you use a 200pf or 220pf for the 200pf position? SKU A-3208 https://www.taydaelectronics.com/c-250k-ohm-anti-log-taper-potentiometer-round-shaft-pcb-mount-l.html This the correct c250k pot? And finally...

Thanks for the link https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/551-EA2-5SNJ

Is there a place to get the relay cheaper than mouser?

Any personal bom’s?

When will the BOM and notes be uploaded?