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Honestly I'd start with adding more solder to basically everything and then go from there.

I definitely agree that you should breadboard, especially since it's a simple circuit/not a lot of parts. For the fortin fuzz (another silicon fuzz face style pedal), it uses bc550c's and has a 120k resistor going across the two transistors at the bottom. To use mp38as and get a decent amount of...

Thank you I did do the driver reset thing just in case. Followed the whole getting started page and couldn't get it to load at first. I ended up having to use the daisy flash loader on the website instead of trying to build and load from VS code. Not sure why, but it worked at least so the new...

Ooh I didn't even think about team bezel or no bezel... I used to always use a bezel. But recently I've been really digging the look of no bezel! And only use a bezel if I fuck up the drilling. I even drill the final step from the inside to help avoid any chip out. Boss didn't use a bezel. Also...

I have too. You said that right after perhaps the longest and most detailed helpful comment I've seen someone take the time to write up on here though.

Are the cheap lumberg style ones from tayda really that bad? I haven't had an issue with my cables and if anything tight jacks should mean a solid connection right?...

Huge globs of solder on both sides of the PCB near the led shorting out stuff. Also if any of the pins started moving while soldering the foot switch then you need a new foot switch. Once those pins become out of place they aren't making a good consistent connection that you can trust and even...

It finally arrived and upon visual inspection looks great. Computer recognizes, now just trying to load the blink program to no avail. But that's probably mine or my computer's fault.

I would but they are so ugly ngl

Fair enough thanks! I'm not on that forum so I suppose I might as well ask through the effectlayouts instagram.

I'd build a jc 120 preamp if I could find a board. Effect layouts used to have the "paladin". The build docs show up and stuff but no option to buy the board.

Trying it out with some mp38a's ;D Hfe ~45-55 for the first transistor, ~75-85 for the second seems to be working best for me. Not nearly as controllable. Kind of have to max the gain. I'm using the 5v pin as vcc and the bias knob is fairly useful to help balance with the girth but it seems to...

sounds like i need to put c4 on a switch for silver jubilee mode before I finish mine lol

Still dirty/compresses with 510 but of course that isn't the optimal value either. Whatever still solved, I'll get some 390's at some point

Thank you! It's definitely looking like I need it to be a 390. I'll try a 510 in the meantime since that's what I have until I get 390s. I'm guessing it'll clean up but have less max output? I got one of those little smd component packs from Amazon cuz I wanted to go ahead and throw them...

Before I go make an actual build report and give it a rating. Has anyone else actually made one of the microboost clean boosts? Mine works but it distorts/compresses and I could use some help figuring out why. I first tried it with just my guitar but then I put a ge7 in front for the buffer in...

Gotcha so my C should be fine since I'm using fully connected cables. It's just that Ampeg originally used grounded A's on everything but lifted the ground on the cable instead as needed?

hell yeah I appreciate all of that! From my understanding, if it wanted an 800, a 150 would get driven too hard right? And you said the input is supposed to be isolated on the tank like it is. So yep time to open the amp.

It's a split back so I can go open or closed back. Got some black shadows in there with it open. 🔥 It fills the room so much for a 2x12. But all the complaining is beside the point.

If it is supposed to be a C then my tank should be good. It measures, it smacks both ways etc... So unless I needed the A then it seems it's time for me to start cracking open the amp and trying to check all the test points. It was open when I got it split into a head and a cab (broken shell...