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My input would be to include the voltage regulators on the device, even if it ups the cost. It's a good tradeoff for convenience. I also like the idea of jumpers or some other setting to quickly configure the module for different applications (parallel, series, stereo, etc.).

Sounds great! Tim engineered some '63 Firebird pickups into Rickenback cases for me years ago and they came out amazing.

Awesome stuff! How noisy/hissy is it with all that gain?

TPS brought it out for another round.

You could try replacing the gain switch with a C5K pot for a bass/girth control.

OK. Do not buy those meters. They're crap. Tested against my Fluke and their readings are about two diode drops off from from my DMM and inconsistent. Didn't bother to move on to testing the impedance after that.

What would you recommend for a good input impedance test?

Wires are power, GND and the voltage to be tested. 4V to 30V is misleading. It only references the Max voltage you can test, limited by the supply voltage available - up to 30V. I'm pretty sure it will give you a 3-digit readout, moving the decimal if the measurement is under 10V, but I need...

This is pretty slick. I recently picked up some cheap ($2 each) DC meters on Amazon. You think it'd be worthwhile to build a project to test 4+ JFETs at a time?

Bat 41 has almost no leakage for our purposes. 1N34a is a number applied to a wide variety of Ge diodes and will all have significantly more leakage. Bat46 and Bat54s are also excellent low-leakage Ge replacements.

If replacing the diodes with low-leakage diodes and it solves the problem, then it is a leakage issue in his build. That's why this is backward:

This is backwards. Bat41s have a similar fV and almost no leakage, so if it sounds good with those, leave them in there and call it done. The feedback resistor in Muff gain stages (usually 470K) sets the amount of negative feedback in that stage, reducing gain. A leaky pair of diodes in that...

In most cases, I see a charge pump in a 9V pedal as adding more issues than it solves. When designing for low noise, one of the best things you can do is avoid boosting the amplitude of the signal more than is necessary. "Extra" gain only hurts the signal-to-noise ratio. Creating distortion...

The Rezzonics blog engineered a Klone that runs on 3.3V, and did the same conversion on a few other pedals.

Rose of Tralee

This is the way. You can get a top notch PS for less than $200, and it's a very good investment.

Also: 1. You can't go by eyesight on LED and LDR pairing. The LDR begins reacting to the LED output before it's visible to the eye. 2. LDRs are far more sensitive than you think. The light from the bypass LED will cause "light pollution" inside a pedal. Instead of elaborate shrouds over the...

I've had good results with the NSL-32 in this circuit. I don't like much of Thorpy's design choices, though, and made my own version that uses a similar side chain to the Fat General. A great alternative is the Boneyard Delegate comp here on PedalPCB.

Another level would be replacing the spring with 3 washer magnets. MX compatible maglev switch

No sweat. If anything, I need to find some simple instructional videos on the basics.