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UPDATE: For anyone like me who couldn't find it, I finally found the forum post that introduces the relays: Intro and Relay differences Full BOM. Note that there is a transistor difference between the two.

I do notice a slight unevenness to the emboss, which I'm fine with. Not sure if printing a layer of black first may help smooth it out. Plus, then it's even more black. It's like, how much more black could this be? And the answer is none. None more black.

Good question. That's only emboss. The purple has a single layer of white underneath it, and the same emboss over it.

You guys really sold me on the emboss-over-black-sand.

How does this work? From what I can tell, it lets you put a soft footswitch in the place of your typical 3PDT click-monster, and it may also allow for those cool "press and hold" temporary effects. But I have no idea what parts I would need, or what a relay even really does in the electronic...

For most of my stuff, I have been just ordering the Tayda UV printing service. $6 to not have to deal with self-printing is a bargain. For stuff that I print myself, I usually do a simple waterslide decal. For my Big Muff, I painted the enclosure and used metal letter stamps. In any case, I use...

That melted cap is C10. Looks like you also melted a bit of C1, near that left trim pot... which also seems melted. For C10, it looks it wouldn't kill the signal if it were removed, but it would if it were shorted. I don't really what it looks like on the schematic if film caps fail via...

Hey, I'm going to resurrect this thread instead of posting my own nearly identical thread... I'm specifically after that piercing "Time" solo tone, so I am thinking of either using B109Cs for both, B108s for both, or a mix of the two. Do I care about the hFE values for these since they're...

Sweet, glad I just pulled the trigger on a drill press! Savin' $4.50 at a time

Chiming in, the only thing I can't do in affinity is convert a bitmap image into SVG via automatic tracing. I still have to use Inkscape for that. Once I have that made, I use Affinity Designer for everything else.

DAMN, that's a neat layout. What gauge wire is that? I'd love to make something so tidy inside!

IC meaning transistor? For diodes I used 1N914s, and I think I used 2N5089s for the transistors.

Thanks! The LED is a simple 5mm UV led with I think a 4.7K clr. I've seen a lot of perfboard for sale while I was hunting down vero to try. Do you have any examples of pedals built on perfboard?

So, over the weekend I just made a Big Muff modeled after the Violet Ram's Head schematic. That may not be so noteworthy, but it is my first time using veroboard, which I wouldn't have even heard of if it weren't for this community and in particular @Chuck D. Bones. This was also the first time...

I just started my first vero board project thanks to this thread, and it feels like both less and more work than my average build. Maybe it's just because I had all the components handy when I decided to start building. (although it's a Big Muff and not a Monarch/Viceroy) I am going to try to...

If you're talking about the figure I just drew as replacing C14, then if the switch is open, the whole thing looks like 33nF between the two right leads. If the switch is closed, the two capacitors are in parallel so it's 101nF.

Wait I think I figured it out... Does this look right? This assembly replaces C14 via the two leads on the right.

So, you're switching the value between 33nF stock and 101nF Phat? If so, could I do the same by wiring a 33nF and a 100nF to a spdt switch and connecting the two ends of the switch to the holes for C14? I'd have to think of how to make a switch that adds a capacitor in parallel but is an open...

Hi all... I was wondering if anyone had any tip on beginning using stripboard/vero board for someone who has never used it before. What do you use to cut sections of board to size? What about making breaks in the traces? Personally I just ordered a few of these from Tayda to try my hand at it...

Sounds like a mod switch waiting to happen