Search results

You should give every spot a re-solder. Just to make sure. When I have a build that isn’t fully operating, that’s usually step one. Pop the IC’s out, first. And double check the orientation of the LEDs. I still mess them up occasionally.

Well done. Very clean. It's always nice to have that moment of satisfaction when it all comes together, even after a nasty burning smell. haha. I've seen a few of these builds now, and I'm very tempted to dive in. I have an Octron 3, and I'm so tempted to built the Octarock just to compare...

I agree with Laundryroom David. I'm not sure about the E C B of those transistors, but are they backwards?

I use my iPhone to play some tunes into the circuit, then into an ehx headphone amp, to verify that all knobs do something. Then I take it to the Tube amp(s) to noodle and twiddle knobs, to verify the all knobs are doing what they're suppose to do. I box it up later. And usually do three or four...

A lovely demo on a Monday morning. BUT, you didn't turn all three phasers on together, for some super wobbly fun. Oh well, I'll have to build an XC to compare to the Circulator, and Phase II. I'll figure out how to record a demo and I'll stack them for some nonsensical craziness. Great build...

HaHa, I have had that same extra 390n cap in my small inventory of caps and resistors, ever since I built my Stompbox parts kit too. Someday it will get used. And I too had the same realization that the kit was easier and cheaper. While shopping at Stompbox parts, I added it to my cart to see if...

With the original Charge Pump, and empty IC1 and 2 sockets, the voltages at pin 4 and 8 on IC2 are 4: -6.9 and 8: 16.64 IC1 1 4.66 2 4.66 3 4.24 4 0 5 4.66 6 4.62 7 4.44 8 9.34 IC2 1 4.62 then lowers to 4.48 2 4.66 3 4.66 4 -6.9 5 4.66 6 4.62 then lowers to 4.48 7 4.62 then lowers to 4.48 8...

Empty charge pump TC1044 socket reads 1 9.35 2 slowly lowering from 4~ 3 0 4 slowly lowering from 2~ 5 9.35 6 0 7 0 8 7.6

YES! Thank you Robert. The Charge pump was faulty. I started audio probing, and got frustrated, so I stepped away and played some music to calm down. I swapped the TL072's earlier, but didn't try the Charge pump. I just now swapped it out and the squeal went away. BUT! The effect isn't...

Reflowed. Still squealing. No LED. And, when I pull IC2, the squeal stops.

Thanks for your help. But now I gotta walk away from the workbench. I'll reflow and let you know.

I was planning to reflow all the solder. But I wanted to figure out the issue first, in case I have to remove more components.

Cap removed. Still Squealing.

The dual gang has been removed. And the squeal is still there.

Heating the iron now. And I agree. Double U tee eff StewMac? How's anyone gonna know what they're getting into if you don't show them the instructions first. Rude.

Have you tried using an audio probe? Your problem sounds familiar to me. Like I had a similar problem a few years back. And I was able to track it down, and it was a cold solder joint that I didn't see with my magnifying glass.

photos

A friend handed over a Stewmac Ghost Drive/ Kliche to me to repair. It worked for a few years, then went dead. I replaced the bad wiring (some were burnt at the ends), and cleaned what I could. The builder used glue to hold the wires on the the jacks, along with solder. And the pots were...

The gold flaking is rather appropriate for a super fuzz. I like a bit of ugliness on a fuzz pedal. I have a yet to be used enclosure beneath my espresso press, to prop up the mug, that is covered with coffee stains. I occasionally think of clear coating the brown and black ring stains, and using...

I agree with the comparison to the Mercurial. One or the other are a must have on the board. Great work, Five Stars indeed.