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this is the first time i’ve played a high gain JFET distortion that actually made me want to keep playing. it sucked in front of the amp, but into the FX loop return, i'm shocked that a JFET distortion can sound this good (with an overdrive/boost in front of course). which is quite a relief...

sounds like heaven

ugh. summer. i don't mind getting a bit sweaty, but ultimately it's the little guys that suffer trying to help where i can on my lunch breaks (hospital/uni adjacent to a reserve) enchanted forest in winter, an inner circle of hell in summer

people use them because they are small. otherwise wherever possible, it's best to use film caps. but sometimes large values like 1uF (or larger) are too big (PCB footprint, overall size) in a film cap format, so either MLCC or electrolytic alternative may be used.

omg 😧

ibanez did a series of 'em 20 years ago https://ibanez.fandom.com/wiki/H._R._Giger_series

this may not apply to your scenario, but my dark rift build had noise in the repeats immediately from the get go. turns out many others have had this experience too. there's a few mods that can be done to address this noise. details

fender ‘musician series’ ear plugs. - cheap but really good. - better than a few pairs that cost x3 as much when i lost a pair (these expensive bs ones were useless and didn’t cut enough volume and were killing me) - can adjust how much attenuation you get by how far you shove em in. -...

nah. i get most of my stuff from tayda. im sure there's nothing wrong at all with this. i didn't need a pound either. not sure about sourcing smaller quantities, but i can certainly vouch for the chipquik 'no clean'/water soluble option that ive linked earlier.

my understanding is that the closest to a G taper is W. if not W, then B can suffice (at least at the centre point, they will be the same) does depend on what the control is doing. when i was breadboarding a Boss MT-2, all of the EQ controls (except mid freq) require G (or W) taper. i subbed...

it's not really a case of 'better', it's just another option and i like it. i've never used kester. also there's like a hundred different types in the kester range, so when asking this question, you need to be comparing apples vs. apples. e.g. - tin/lead ratio - various ratios of lead-free...

ever since i got onto this particular solder recommended by @Nostradoomus it has made everything so much easier to clean. https://mou.sr/4shmU7g the flux is fully water soluble / washable. im not kidding, with this stuff you could just hose that build under a hot/warm tap, dry it off with a...

for which build?

i breadboarded both the sour grape fuzz and cleric fuzz just recently on the weekend, and compared them to my OG/V5 opamp muff build. the sour grape fuzz was weird. it has a lot of mids in a way that makes it sound more like an odd distortion than a muff fuzz. although people into the ‘tone...

farrk i wish my freehand was that tidy. looks great 👌

(input jack; output jack) "IN" refers to PCB input, "OUT" refers to PCB output.

crikey! ill be honest, i had no idea this kind of product existed for this purpose. good to know.

uhhhhhhh

yep, same method with that style (tayda equivalents) https://www.taydaelectronics.com/flat-cylindrical-5mm-led-lampshade-protector-clear-plastic-clip.html i've found these are just a little bit smaller in diameter than the flatter/flush lens (seen in this build thread), so just have to be extra...