Search results

I honestly haven't bothered remembering a source as I've probably bought from four places and it's all been just fine. Maybe good luck on my part.

A neighbor walked by during feeding time on the farm. He looked over and the farmer was standing there, holding his pig up to his apple trees so they could eat. The neighbor says, "Jeez, you'd save a lot of time if you just shake that apple tree." The farmer shrugs and says, "What's time to a pig?"

CARCHARIAS, COME BACK! I'd buy that Sagan PCB too. Re: Guitar Mania, I bought two from them when I started building, and I received three: Uberschall: Kind of early build for me so I was sure it had to be me. Could be. But, I put some care and effort into troubleshooting, feel like I found a...

Noice. Shredmaster is usually on my board. The other two are waiting for me to get the motivation to do their offboard work someday. Art looks good!

I like those, too.

I like finding odd ones at the surplus/salvage. I tend not to do LED choice or placement until I decide on the art--it always depends on the art.

I switch back and forth between a cheap Kindle Fire app, Design Space, and Word for font work :ROFLMAO:. Your pedals look very clean! Do you hit them with any coating after?

I use coin batteries to test LEDs work before I solder. I'm interested to hear if anyone does think they should have a CLR; I bet the CLR comment was meant if they choose to use a 9V.

Random, this was on my bench when this thread started. Plain ol' screamer with AMZ mods, C3 bass boost on a switch and warp control for asymmetrical clipping. I'm experimenting with mod podge for finishing, and will be adding a more layers to get rid of the streaky glue look. Missed having a TS...

lol, just another small build, bazz fuss. When I'm stressed at work I tend to make small circuits for a quick break.

I've got a vero Arrows circuit in a small plastic enclosure that I ended up liking a ton for its size. Toggle instead of stomp, banana for scale.

I have no qualms buying from Tayda for anything they do sell. I stick to alpha pots from Tayda rather than their brand but I personally haven't had issues with any brand of pots. I like to get wima for film caps, wherever I can get them. I tend to get jacks and switches elsewhere just out of...

Never can have enough switches. You added the 3PDT daughterboard that came with the PCB, not a different one? I've had only one bad 3PDT and I've never managed to bridge lugs (yet), but that's just my semi-newbie experience.

OK, got it. Yes, I have the OC79 footprints. This was an early build for me and going back over it I just found a cap I must have thought was "close enough" at the time. It's working and sounds good. Thanks

I just glanced at the current version and one that's on Reverb, and I see the PCB's changed from the version above, which is also the one I built a while back. Did anything change that people who bought the old PCB could be aware of?

Resurrecting a quiet thread, yes, I had the same issue with this pedal.

Looking at the BOM, if you are now installing a B1M dual gang that bridge should be broken (well, not connected) anyway, right? My first guess is it's fine as-is.

The schematic will show it better than the PCB anyway.

I'm having a problem similar to what I've seen on boards with Univibe-type pedal builds, but so far I haven't seen an answer. For the Abyss, the pedal works when Intensity and Rate are all the way up, but when Rate goes down at all, it misses the LED switching threshold and the pulsing stops...

Thanks a ton, everyone! I'm paying attention to the 'why' on all of this, but I've got a whole lot to learn on transistors in particular. I'll look into each option.