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appears to be https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2013/07/mindbender-fuzz-compact-layout.html i have previously followed the mindbender schematic when breadboarding... but that 2K fuzz / attack pot value seems kinda dumb to me, so I just went with a 1K pot. (doubt this will change much, but...

probably. it's just a buffer. i actually used/tried a J201, and a 2N5089 in my breadboard build, and both worked fine.

absolutely have. just as well they're only 8 pin. [16 pin is pure masochism when your solder sucker is a POS] yep. @kirt1974 - use flux. - have a good solder sucker. - expect it to take a long time. if all else fails, and you're able/prepared to sacrifice the ICs, you could just snip them...

the 4n7 cap goes here:

heck yeah. build looks great. definitely one of the better 1 knob fuzzes. this one. should easy fit in 1590A (i'd swap that 1N4001 for 1N5817 though)

so... do you mean solid state/tube rec switch? ceriatone has some examples of this: (also has a fixed bias / cathode bias switch) https://ceriatone.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/02/5F6A-All-Access-20-Jan-2025.pdf

i was wearing pants! it is winter over here atm - good ol robe does the trick when it’s 15’C inside the house (what is central heating?)

doesn’t have enough gain/drive for me without a boost. and i find if i dial the gain real high it gets a bit flubby/broken, so usually a boost sorts that out. tried SD-1, 808, TS9, but ST-9 worked the best for me, although i probably should’ve tried an MT-2 boost but i was running out of...

VH-140C hype got me. of course I had to check it out. could’ve (and probably should’ve) just breadboarded it, but the whole +/-15VDC thing and buying a DC-DC converter to do that properly, may as well build this well laid out PCB from AionFX. obscure parts meant this was gonna require a mouser...

im assuming the values above are collector voltages? note: it's usually handy to know what the idle voltage is at each pin. e.g. Q1c, Q1b, Q1e (where c = collector, b = base, e = emitter)

ah yep. GT404 will be BCE pinout.

you said voltages are all good, but post them here anyway. be sure to check the pinout on those GT402s. - i'm pretty sure they might be BCE (as opposed to the usual CBE) also, I just had a look - GT402 are apparently PNP. https://stompboxparts.com/transistors/gt402-pnp-germanium-transistor/...

thanks! this one would have been tuned to drop C. just with 10-52 strings. do it 🤟🏻🤟🏻 it’s an awesome drive. i don’t think so. films caps are 100v and most of the ecaps would have been 35V minimum. if not 50V. i can’t remember exactly. running it with a 12V supply over a normal 9V just...

well, dudes using AI.. tells you everything.

https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb534/

brilliant execution. looks great. that lamp tho 👌 legit. it's so easy to use. this is great to know, cos i skipped kester entirely. been using the 63/37 version of this stuff since march last year after @Nostradoomus 's recommendation.

interesting... not sure about the zonk specifically, but: the 'Gary Hurst' version of the MkI has this 33K: but the 'Sola Sounds' version MkI omits this resistor completely (as does the Tone Vendor MkI) so yeah I guess it does seem kinda ludicrous for that value to be so low at 3K3. seems...

+1 same. i first got the idea when i saw your builds. and i feel its absolutely worth it when shit goes wrong. yes desoldering isn’t hard, but when you’re at that stage of the build and getting thrown by an error, being able to just pull the whole thing out is pretty valuable and absolutely...