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It is always the weirdest things, like a wire with no continuity, that keep you on your toes. On the bright side, it sharpens your troubleshooting skills.

Check your potentiometer sweepers (lug 2) for continuity (bad pot check). Also check C12 + R16 values (15Khz high pass bleed). Check all the values in the tone stack.

Correct - omit C4, otherwise the pedal is only usable on dark amps.

I agree with @gonzo that the pickups are good. I am guessing: pickup heights, or got the wiring out of phase, or other wiring error,or switch malfunction.

I watched a video about Tom's Bukovac (Nashville studio session player / sideman), and really liked how he uses the Vertex Boost with an expression pedal as a volume / boost. So, I borrowed one from a local music store that I repair for, tried it and liked it. I could not hear any difference...

Have you measured the ohms of the neck pickup with a DMM?

I owned a Sabbra Cadabra and its cousin, the Gallello, - both were noisy due to the built-in treble booster.

Hey Patrick - reviving an older post. When you mention 'patches', does a builder need an EPROM programmer?

I built this Marble Drive in 2022, which is based on the 'Marvel Drive', to which I call mine 'Prodigy'. It was built to the schematic and bias values people cited, which is pretty much a Marshall model 1987 / 1959 (50w / 100w), except using J-201 FETS instead of tubes. It was really hard to...

IMHO, the artifacts of a decent regulated and filtered supply, rarely present themselves as audible noise floor. I could see a logical argument for it affecting linearity of amplification of an effect (clarity and evenness), which would be quite overcome by a boost or dirt pedal. I build my own...

With the toggle in the middle 'off' position, using a DMM check for continuity (1 Ohm 'beep') between the legs of C1 and the solder pin 2 of the switch. It should have continuity in all switch positions, including 'off'. Next check pin 2 to the base pin of Q1, with the 2nd pin of the switch...

Looks like spaghetti. All that wire makes for a great antenna to pull in RFI and create oscillations. I too recommend reducing the wire.

^ This. From the look of it, it appears to be a small value in the picofarads. From what we know of Bonamassa (he dislikes brittle trebles and prefers thick, dark tones), that is a 100pF ish cap to take out the RF (Radio Frequencies) and shrill highs.

Somehow, I accidentally dropped a Spin FV-1 DSP IC into my cart while making a purchase at my electronics supply company. I had no preconceived use for this. What PedalPCB would you build with this chip?

Looks like a clean and professional build! For me with a guitar into a 60's Fender, it makes for a multidimensional 'big' clean sound.

90% snake oil. The inner components are what makes a tube microphonic, especially the very fine control grid. The speaker vibrations travel through the tube pins, more so than by way of the glass. With some exceptions of cheap import tubes from the 70's & early 80's made with thin glass...

Inspect all the wires at the solder joints for breaks. The lead solder of the era had acid rosin in it to make it flow and would corrode (then break) its aluminum wires, simply by a function of time and oxidation. Next, clean the switch with contact cleaner. It looks to be a mechanical...

@RobotZombie23 asked me to post this modification to a wah-wah effect pedal, as manufactured by the Jim Dunlop company (Cry Baby, Dunlop, Vox, etc). The relay is a an HK19F-HP-5V, which can be purchased on Amazon for a few $. Here is the schematic: And here is the Layout:

That might have been an ingredient. I had an OIP cap go short while I was working on a mid-60's Layfette (MIJ) tube amp in the 90's, which the smoke produced smelled like rancid fish.