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Sparky Mark I am going to suggest that you start a new thread specific to your issue. There are a lot of reasons why these things may not work and a lot of tests that can be run to determine where the fault could be. Rather than make guesses give us some information about your specific build...

The volume looks more problematic than the switch. Personally I don't use boards for footswitches because they are more hassle than they are worth IMO. The switch can be easily checked for continuity to make sure it is connected properly with the solder that is there.

I am not keen on the soldering of the volume pot or the footswitch

A normal soldering iron with a fine point is enough to desolder/resolder those, but I would practise first. You can get the SMD J201's from a few places.

The meter is set to the correct setting. According to the schematic though, none of the transistor legs connect directly to ground, so you need a different place for the black probe. One of the ground connections for the power or audio jacks would work.

Looking at your photos the only thing I notice is that the tip contact for one of the input jacks is nearly touching the case. As far as I can work out it's on the good one, so it's obviously not actually touching and isn't an actual problem. I'd be moving it a bit to stop problems later down...

Show us a photo of the setting you are using on your meter. There are usually current and voltage settings. You need the DC voltage setting. I am also pretty sure that you should be putting the red lead on the bias pad, and the black lead on a ground connection somewhere (ground of the power...

That should be correct then

Other thing I thought about - is your switch (on the key jack) normally open or normally closed?

The build docs call for a switched TRS jack for the key jack. You seem to have a TRS jack that is not switched. Also, the wiring shown on the build doc will connect the ground for the 2 sidechain jacks through the case. I don't think the sidechain will work without ground connections on these...

Yeah, audio probe won't be useful until you can get the power where it needs to be.

To me, if the build docs are specifying a wire not a jumper then I would be using insulated hook up wire, not uninsulated connectors (e.g resistor legs). If that is what they mean then they probably should have specified insulated wire, but that is what I would be doing

My memory is that the bias for these will be around 4.5v in order to work properly

The V3102 is a clock generator. It generates the clock signal that make the delay chip work. Something would be very wrong if you had the audio signal on any of it's pins. It looks as if you are getting audio out of the delay chip, which I think means the clock is working fine. From your...

Defective jacks are pretty unusual - especially if they are new. If they've been plugged/unplugged a few thousand times or left for years to oxidise that can be a problem. In any case it's easy to check - plug a (known good) lead in and check continuity from the tip to the signal wire coming...

With no audio, what voltages do you get at R4/R20 with the mix pot in middle, one end, other end. Same for R19/R21 Do you get the effected audio at IC1.1?

My memory of BBD chorusing is that there is a very narrow band on the trimpot that will give you anything.

That is indeed promising

It's either a faulty EEPROM or the connections from teh FV-1 to the EEPROM Mix and vol should indeed be working as expected with the internal programs. If they are not then that is a problem, but a separate problem

Pins 16-18 of the FV-1 should also measure a different combination of voltages with every different position of the rotary switch (will count up in binary). Each effect position should have an audible difference though if you are listening rather than measuring voltages.