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I personally dislike having the values on the PCB (no front) but can live with either way. My only issue with Aion is the 3PDT breakout boards (let's be honest, if something breaks on a pedal it's usually the footswitch) and sometimes weird design decisions, like the rather expensive DC-DC...

Built this one too and it's pretty nice, only complaints being that I'd prefer a feedback knob instead of the switch and that it can be a bit noisy/hissy. How about yours in that regard?

You COULD try to disconnect lug 1 of the treble pot from the PCB and run a wire to lug 1 of the bass pot, that probably does a lot already. Otherwise try adding a small-ish value cap in parallel to R17 (graft it onto the same pads, gives you a lowpass filter in conjunction with R9 to tame the...

inb4YATS (no but really, how many stacked electras is it?)

Huh... That's... Something. The "gyrators" on that one always made my brain hurt and everyone who I know built a clone complained about it's brightness. Curious to see the new version!

So it's actually correct?

Black monolith: *exists* Robert: "And I took that personally!"

A piece of the black monolith from 2001: a space odyssey. It delivers demonic alien energy to make chugs more dense than a red dwarf.

The Normal and Treble Volume are basically normal and bright gain controls and they change not only tone, but also saturation. There really is no easy hack, you'll have to either redesign the PCB or use an EQ board and essentially build a dual pedal. EDIT: Also just noticed the Marvel Drive is...

3 scenarios: switch going straight to the 47K resistor, jumping the 1M - least gain. Switch putting the 1M resistor in parallel to the 1M resistor in the loop, resulting in 547K in the feedback loop - more gain. Switch not connecting at all - 1M047 in the feedback loop - most gain. I...

Funnily enough I think the best tones in the Pantheon are on standard gain and clipping. Didn't find the extra gain switch to add any think worthwhile, felt more like it was trying to achieve something the pedals wasn't supposed to do, namely stupidly high gain. The bass knob, external presence...

1) Depends. The pedal running full blast might get you some extra JFET breakup if the volume is after the boost. If it's before the boost it will be likely cleaner and also give you consistent output impedance. 2) If you want more distortion/compression yes, but you're mostly overdriving the...

Hear me out: Spoo-key

What it essentially comes down to is learning the building blocks, knowing what influences tone in which way when placed where in the circuit and how to connect it all. Simulations can help but ultimately it comes down to fuck around and find out.

Change the fixed lowpass filter. There's a 1K resistor in between the 2 halves of the op amp (for reference R8 in the XB-MB) and a 220n capacitor to ground (C5 in XB-MB). You can make either the resistor or the cap smaller, which is the easiest solution. The stock filter is at 720Hz.

Well obviously measuring voltages requires that there is power on the pedal....

My feeling is that there's a bad solder joint, but can't tell as long op doesn't post the underside.

Assuming all values are correct, it's most likely user error such as bad soldering somewhere. Check IC voltages. Also check whether R6 has continuity to the upper IC's pin 2. Maybe also post pictures of the backside

No, it's a pulldown resistor. It also influences impedance but the main function is to discharge the input cap to avoid switch popping.

If R1 had no resistance you'd get no signal at all as it would short your signal to ground. Edit: when your pedal is in bypass, the input of the board is grounded, hence no resistance and continuity to ground. Click the footswitch, you'll measure 1M.