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They are indeed. Also, it seems like (it’ll take a few more etches to see for sure) I can get a little deeper etch without losing edge detail. Since the film makes a ‘harder’ stencil than the toner.

Far be it from me to discourage anyone’s laser ambitions… …but you might want to give the Photoresist Film method a chance before you give up on chemical etching altogether. The only new things I had to buy to get started were: • a UV Exposure Light ($34 Bezo-bucks)...

I have used that thin magazine paper once or twice. It can work. But it tends to get a little wave in it coming out of the printer, so you have to work against that, and it’s easier to tear it with the iron. Thick stuff is definitely nicer. I still get the occasional unsolicited glossy catalog...

I’ve etched a bunch of enclosures. What’s worked for me: • Sand the enclosure flat. I do go for a mirror finish, fishing with 2000 or 3000 grit wet sanding • Clean it. I use acetone. • Get your prints nice and dark black. This will be specific to your particular graphics program and printer...

Also, anything attached directly to a transformer will usually not give you useful continuity readings. * same for electric motor windings, though they don’t come up quite as often in pedals/amps;)

I use sockets for ICs. Mainly just to save on desoldering if I have to swap one. Transistors I don’t usually bother with, as desoldering 3 legs isn’t much hassle. I’ve never had a socket cause a bad connection. I’ve use both the machine and ‘leaf’ type sockets, just depending on what I had on...

Couldn’t even put real rice in there? Just that boil-in-bag shit?!

Option 1 should be fine for my purposes. Thanks for explaining the other iterations as well though 👍 I’ve got an Aion Small Clone (w/ some mods) all ready to assemble. After that the Karaoke will definitely be my next chorus build.

If it was something in the audio path, I’d say go ahead and experiment. I understand the ‘I’m one part short, but I really want to finish this today!!’ feeling. But for something like a voltage regulator there’s an excellent chance slapping the wrong one in there is going to fry other correct...

SMD code ID site says it’s a Torex XC6111a423, which is a “voltage detector”. Probably not a part that’s going to be called for in a pedal.

Predictably, this board is still languishing in the ‘to be built’ queue. Hopefully I get to it before the 2-year mark 🤞;)

Yes, I am a lawyer!

The part about Reverb not letting you sell it might be true, but that’s just a private company enforcing their own policies not the law.

Trademark infringement cases usually hinge on the question of ‘would a potential consumer be reasonably likely to mistake this product for the trademarked one?’ (google “Negativland vs. U2” if you want an entertaining trademark story…) So, unless you’re selling a pedal called “Fumble” that also...

In general, I wouldn’t take legal advice from guitar pedal forum-goers (including me), there’s plenty of info out there about what “trademark” and “trade dress” do and don’t protect. You can go look it up and read all about it if you’re interested 🤷‍♀️ What I’m fairly confident in saying is...

Oh yeah, I think that’s the same thread I read a while back that gave me the vague memory of thinner walls. The 1550 wall thicknesses are… Q: 1.8 mm P: 1.5 mm A: 1.5 mm B/D: 1.5 mm C: 1.8 mm M: 1.8 mm K: 1.8 mm L: 2.0 mm E/F: 2.0 mm G/H: 2.0 mm N: 2.5 mm J: 2.5 mm * I mistakenly...

Looks like wall thickness for 1590 runs from: 1.6 - 2.5 mm (somewhat corresponding to the overall size, i.e. bigger enclosure = slightly thicker walls) 1550 is pretty similar at: 1.8 1.5 - 2.5 mm So I guess that myth is busted! ;) The only actual difference I can find from a casual perusal...

To me, the E, G, and J look like the most useful (for large and multi-fx projects). In that they’re the most different from the 1590 sizes without being way too tall for normal pedal use.

Excellent! Went ahead and made my own graphic based on the chart: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/size-graphic-for-hammond-1550-boxes.29547/