Search results

Looks like you’re “just asking questions”! ;) Re: DAWs, I’ll throw in another endorsement for Studio One. I tried several different ones, and it turned out to be the most intuitive to me. I think all the big DAWs have at least some kind of free trial version, I’d download a few and see what...

I’m not super knowledgeable on all the technical aspects of audio interfaces, but I’ve had the MOTU M4 for a few years now and it’s been very solid. No complaints.

I linked it because it had some relevant technical info about MLCC caps. I don’t care what you buy, champ. :)

They’re mainly a higher quality replacement for ceramic disc caps. Usually used for very low capacitance values that film caps aren’t available in. Is the quality difference between ceramic disc and MLCC discernible in most pedal circuits? 🤷‍♀️ Maybe not, but MLCCs are pretty cheap these days...

Don’t know anything about the pedal, but I dig this artwork! Got some definite Pushead vibes 🤘

I was looking for a better way to hold enclosures steady while I sand them. “Better than holding them with my feet?!” you ask? Maybe so… I channeled my ‘caveman level’ woodworking skills, drilled some strategic holes in a piece of plywood, put some 10/24 tee nuts on the back to serve as...

It does indeed appear to form a passive RL low-pass filter, with a bizarrely high cut-off frequency far outside the range of human hearing, not to mention anything that might be present in a guitar signal… I’d be interested to hear someone speculate as to any reason it might be there 🤷‍♀️

Totally happened to my friend’s cousin’s buddy, in Florida. It was a big tough guy with tears in his eyes and then he said “sir, thank you for having the courage to use period-correct NOS parts when no-one else would!” 🫡

Looks great 👍 Is that an underwater topographical map? Can you etch into the actual metal (as opposed to the paint) a significant amount? I’ve been curious weather a laser could replace chemical etching on bare aluminum. What I’d read/seen in the past suggested a hobbyist-grade laser could...

I like Stompbox Parts. Decent prices, good selection including some of the weird stuff (dual gang, odd tapers), and they always show up quickly (from MI to TX in my case). I ordered my non-hardware components from Mouser. So I don’t have much occasion to order from Tayda, and their ‘90s...

“None” is also a valid warranty policy. Depending on price point and what you’re trying to achieve. My main point was, decide beforehand, communicate it clearly to (potential) customers, and stick to it. Whatever “it” is. Don’t just start improvising when you get your first...

I think the main thing I would do if I was going to sell commercially, even on a very small scale, is write up an actual warranty policy. As much for my own benefit, as for the buyer. Think about and codify: • what do I feel like is my responsibility to fix if it fails in normal use? • what time...

^ that’s a very PhD Thesis way of figuring out that all the Muffs mostly sound like Muffs…

Nice! I’ve got a Pro Filter in my queue, might do something like this. Or, build the mixer into the same enclosure, and turn the individual outs into send/return loops…🤔

This article: https://mixdownmag.com.au/features/violet-oscillation-pedal-abstracting-specialist-shoegaze-tones-from-the-genres-boffins/ mentions “The pedal is inspired by a range of circuits – there’s a little bit of BOSS HM-2, a bit of Vox Tone Bender, a bit of Roger Mayer Octavia…” Don’t...

Well, I guess this troubleshooting thread was productive… …for EQD ;)

Did the pedal work previously, or is this your first time powering up after building it?

Though I agree with the sentiment about America’s ‘pathological aspirationalism’, I think you might be referencing this oft-mis-paraphrased Steinbeck quote. Where he was actually talking shit about dilettante weekend revolutionaries;) "Except for the field organizers of strikes, who were pretty...

Only tips I have for drilling steel are slowest speed you can manage and plenty of pressure (like most of your body weight) on the back of the drill. Unless it’s stainless, then you should just give up immediately! ;)

I think it’s also useful, conceptually, to differentiate between 0V (the black wire coming from your power supply) and chassis ground. 0V is your return current path, you need it for your circuit to work. And in a pedal you’ve got a DC power circuit and an AC audio circuit that both need a 0V...