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unless the tube device is leaning heavily into doing non-linear things, like distortion, i wouldn’t expect much benefit in this scenario

theoretical behaviour perhaps? most human ears can't hear graphs or waveforms. breadboarding allows you to hear in real time exactly what the circuit sounds like in the rig of your choice.

what's wrong with LF353? been using it as a TL072 sub for a while now without issue. looking through this datasheet... https://www.ti.com/lit/gpn/LF353 not seeing this thing about 10V min

was thinking about this when looking at the schematic. with such wide a range (438 - 743), could be just about anything. what did you choose in the end?

yep this was my initial thought but the guy is claiming: so assuming all components are the same, there has to be a build error somewhere. and ill say it again. Q3e should not be zero.

that’s what i thought

well ive eyeballed the heck out of this layout a few times now and cannot find anything wrong with it vs. the schematic. Q3e should not be zero. it should have some voltage. like 0.1v or thereabouts. there's a clue. ?perhaps there's a short somewhere causing Q3e to have continuity to ground...

appears to be https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2013/07/mindbender-fuzz-compact-layout.html i have previously followed the mindbender schematic when breadboarding... but that 2K fuzz / attack pot value seems kinda dumb to me, so I just went with a 1K pot. (doubt this will change much, but...

probably. it's just a buffer. i actually used/tried a J201, and a 2N5089 in my breadboard build, and both worked fine.

absolutely have. just as well they're only 8 pin. [16 pin is pure masochism when your solder sucker is a POS] yep. @kirt1974 - use flux. - have a good solder sucker. - expect it to take a long time. if all else fails, and you're able/prepared to sacrifice the ICs, you could just snip them...

the 4n7 cap goes here:

heck yeah. build looks great. definitely one of the better 1 knob fuzzes. this one. should easy fit in 1590A (i'd swap that 1N4001 for 1N5817 though)

so... do you mean solid state/tube rec switch? ceriatone has some examples of this: (also has a fixed bias / cathode bias switch) https://ceriatone.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/02/5F6A-All-Access-20-Jan-2025.pdf

i was wearing pants! it is winter over here atm - good ol robe does the trick when it’s 15’C inside the house (what is central heating?)

doesn’t have enough gain/drive for me without a boost. and i find if i dial the gain real high it gets a bit flubby/broken, so usually a boost sorts that out. tried SD-1, 808, TS9, but ST-9 worked the best for me, although i probably should’ve tried an MT-2 boost but i was running out of...

VH-140C hype got me. of course I had to check it out. could’ve (and probably should’ve) just breadboarded it, but the whole +/-15VDC thing and buying a DC-DC converter to do that properly, may as well build this well laid out PCB from AionFX. obscure parts meant this was gonna require a mouser...

im assuming the values above are collector voltages? note: it's usually handy to know what the idle voltage is at each pin. e.g. Q1c, Q1b, Q1e (where c = collector, b = base, e = emitter)

ah yep. GT404 will be BCE pinout.