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I've used a 2" sanding drum setup on a small drill press - and just move it (the 1590B) back and forth. Takes a while but worth it.

yeah definitely a challenge esp with all those pots

very nice! Yeah, I've done it for the Simulcast and Gen Tso. A pain but I just like it better than 125. It's sooooo close. If they were just 1-2mm smaller....

looks really interesting. they've come a long way. I think I'm going to try them out - looks very nice what sort of license is it in terms of authorization /install? Keycode, etc? How many installs (computers) etc In "Designer' - how close can it work like a 2D CAD program? I use an old...

they're not polarized - just a "light sensitive" resistor the LEDs of course (anode/cathode) is important orientation

I've heard good things about this one: UT61E I have and old (calibrated!) Fluke 8600A benchtop and Fluke 79

https://www.taydaelectronics.com/1n4744a-1n4744-zener-diode-1w-13v.html $0.04

Some info on that in this thread https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/what-green-leds-for-general-tso.2729/page-2#post-25942

The TSO is always buffered - IE not true bypass

shot it the dark and you probably double checked but is your LEDs on the LDR correct polarity? IE can you tell they are "lighting" inside the shrink wrap?

very nice work

Yeah I have it all built up except for the LDR socket - just been lazy lately! I have the AION version (w/o the treble pot) and it sounds amazing with VTL54C . I figure either the TAYDA GREEN A-1553 or Yellow (or VTL) will all work great. Did you couple LED side to cell, or LED top to cell?

Aside from cost - any reason not to just use a VTL54C? VTL5C4 1mA = 784 ohms 5mA = 354 ohms 11.5mA = 220 ohms 20mA = 168 ohms 41mA = 120 ohms TAYDA GREEN A-1553 - LED top pointing at LDR inside a 5mm shinksleeve 1mA = 7.7k ohms 5mA = 2.1k ohms 10mA = 1.2k ohms 20mA = 835 ohms 43mA = 577 ohms...

Its actually not too bad to off board mount the transformer and fit in a 1590BB https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/my-atomic-doucast-with-1590bb-off-board-transformer-mounting.3013/

heheh - I should have taken a pic - they're 100uF, and on the underside there are 22uF connected in parallel. Total of 122uF. yeah - you're right. I looked a long time and there just aren't any of the smaller dia 120uF.

yep - it all adds up - remote was the easiest. That's what I did not my Simulcast to fit into a 1590B

possibly but you'd have to move a lot of the caps to the other side too...

Thanks - retro look is my thing and what I was going for!

Thanks - yeah just a thin sheet (0.045"? 0,062"?) polished then decals and protective varnish over it. I like labeling my controls - but also like black boxes - so it's what I've come up with as my "style". The "label" plates are of some vintage aircraft parts from a (now defunct) company.