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Try resoldering the wire connecting the negative side of the DC jack and the PCB. Lug 1 is connected to ground, so you should be getting something close to 0Ω between the negative terminal of the DC jack and lug 1. Edit: Try the diode setting on your multimeter. It probably has a secondary...

Really?! I didn't know that they made multimeters without a continuity test function. Can you also post a picture of your multimeter? In the meantime, try measuring the resistance between lug 1 and the negative terminal on your DC jack. If it's ~0Ω, then there's continuity. If you get a really...

The don’t have a US location as far as I can tell. Tayda used a freight forwarder that was based in Colorado as their economy shipping option until 2022ish, at which point they changed their shipping to the options that they currently offer.

They’ve added faceplate engraving/cutting/printing, too.

What happens if you do a continuity test between lug 1 and the negative terminal on your DC jack?

Looks like what JHS calls the V3C “no brackets” version, as the control and jack labels are not placed inside of boxes. Based on the foot switch date, I’m guessing that it was built sometime between mid-1987 and 1988, when the PCB was redesigned and the LED was added.

You did a great job on this one. I love the touches of yellow on the dauber and their echo on the yellow knobs.

Welcome to the forum! If you post the PDF that you uploaded at Tayda, one of us would be happy to take a look at it for you and see whether we can spot any issues.

Does the Vf change if you hold the diode between your fingers? If it changes, then it’s germanium. If it’s the same, then it’s silicon.

Depends on the fuzz. I’ve built Tone Bnemder Mk. II’s with Q1 and Q3 that leak 500-600 uA and sound phenomenal. Likewise, I’ve used AC187 and GC521 transistors that leak over 1mA in Tone Reapers, and they sounded really good, too. I’ve heard of people using extremely leaky transistors for some...

This. In most circuits the leakage matters a lot more.

Same here. Oleg is the best.

How many pedals do you plan on building? And which ones do you want to build?

The search feature is your friend, as lots of people have posted about Soviet germanium transistors. (Many of them were manufactured in what is now Ukraine, not Russia, and the eBay shops that sell them are likewise located in Ukraine.) Here are some of my favorites: Very low leakage (good for...

Ok, here's the final version. I've triple checked that it matches up with the schematic that Chuck posted, so it should be good to go. The routing is a bit tidier than the earlier mockup that I posted, and I also added a bias pad to make it easier to measure Q3's collector voltage as you're...

Try some KD521V diodes in your Green Russian build. They have a lower Vf than the 1N4148 or 1N914 that most other muffs use, and it has a noticeable effect on the tone. If you can’t find any, try 1N4150, which has a similar I/Vf curve and is still in production. The 1N4150 is a good option for...

Need to double check everything, but here's what I've got so far. Once I've verified that everything looks good, I'll throw a Gerber up for folks who are interested. Q1, Q4, and Q5 are BC549C. Q2 is 2N4123, and Q3 is any low-mid gain NPN germanium with an EBC pinout. Edit: Several revisions...

Acetone FM-2 (PedalPCB Master Fuzz) or Ibanez Standard Fuzz.

Breadboard the circuit before you build it. That way you can audition different transistors, see how they sound in circuit, and adjust any components that need some tweaking.

Update: I tried 470Ω and 1k, along with a 2.2n B-C capacitor. I reduced the B-C resistor to 100k to keep the collector voltage down. It sounded better, but not very much like a Mk II. Both 470Ω and 1k were less synthy with the volume knob all the way up, especially on high notes which was an...