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Interesting. Trying to grasp what you're on about, I pulled up a Big Cheese schematic and redrew it with the mode switch removed and circuit fixed at Mode 4. Mode #4 is the only mode that grounds R10 (1K); essentially turning the Fuzz pot (1K) into a 666Ω to 500Ω pot - depending on the trimmer...

Correct on both counts.

For the "One-of_Four" (radio button style) switching, the "A1 - A5" & "B1 - B5" values are what transpose over to the original SW101 diagram. Yes, they are simply drawn out differently. No. The CD4042 is critical for the "One-of_Four" (radio button style) switching. The CD4013 is a CMOS Dual...

No. I do not sell either of the X100 switching boards. However, I freely provide either set of Gerbers, when so requested. The one in this thread is my original design that cycles thru all four modes with one stomp. The second I came up with is a radio-style switch and requires 4 stomps - so...

I still have about 100 tested TH Fairchild J201s for sale at $2 (+ shipping) each.

Earlier on it appeared that way, but the four boards I got from them recently are all working. Their Tremolo Factory, however, still has all the pot legs reversed; so either the pots all work backwards or they (and the LEDs) get mounted on the component side. Dunno if that's by design or a...

The PCBMania Watchtower is more than just YATS. The multiple clipping options alone make this pedal a worthy build. But with the voicing switch; togglable "Bright" & "Buffer" options; and two, footstomp-swappable, independently controllable gain channels, this build becomes an adventure in OD...

Ah! Does seem to be a bit of cork sniffering. The parts count expense comparison to the price doesn't come off as fiscally concerned.

I ran into a monolithic IC named the UAF42 (Universal Active Filter from TI or Burr-Brown) and find it quite interesting for potential use in pedals where flexible LP, BP HP & Notch filters can be applied. Anyone else know of this chip, seen it or used it? They run rather expensive at bout $42...

Seeing as this is a "Build Reports" forum, I suggest you post your troubleshooting issue in the "Troubleshooting" forum with good clear pics of your build.

This is the wrong thread for your inquiries. This is an FV-1 thread where the topic is about working with FV-1 algorithms. Please stick with the thread you have going in the "Troubleshooting" forum.

@serhay - As pointed out by @jwin615, it's a better option to start your own troubleshooting thread with good clear photos than to jump in on someone else's issue with so little information. It just muddles the thread.

Sorry - typo. I meant "whisker point".

That sounds like "thermal runaway". A small regulator like that can cook itself, even while still delivering it's intended 3.3V. There could be an extra load on the 3.3V rail. I think @phi1 nailed it with a current draw measurement. Personally, of the few dozen FV-1 pedals I've built, not one...

We could probably be of better assistance if we could see some good, clear photos of your build - front & back of the PCB and wiring.

It depends on the seller's ratings, return policy and number of sales. You can also tell by looking at them - germanium diodes have a whisker point, silicon does not. You can also tell by testing them with a Peak Atlas DCA75.

Have you looked at Electric Druid's StompFlo, TapFlo 3D or VCLFO 10 ?

It's always important to get the right emPHAsis on the correct syLAble . . .

You can find the User Manual HERE.

That's quite an interesting question and deeper than I've ever asked myself. I can only imagine that there's no single factor (parameter) that would determine that. In as such, I went to AI and asked . . . . "An op amp begins distorting when the required output violates any of these: Vout >...