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My guess is that the curves won't be exact from manufacturer to manufacturer -- but Murata's numbers will probably be a reasonable approximation -- under the assumption that this is basically physics, and not some secret sauce in the dielectric material.

Why the big resistor values at R23/R26? (e.g. how were they chosen - something that's worked before in another design, or ...?) My non-expert intuition is that you're cutting a ton of signal going into it and then amplifying the tiny remaining signal a great deal with the large feedback...

Question - with the extra power thing desoldered, does it make noise again? If you measure it while it's making noise, are the voltage readings different? source: I have no idea what I'm doing but I stayed at a holiday inn express last night Thinking about it a little more, I think that...

Are you sure you've hacked up your IC5 correctly? It looks like you've connected your DC in to pin 5 and not pin 8. They're numbered counterclockwise for some reason and not two rows starting from the top, so 1 8 2 7 3 6 4 5 You probably want to disconnect that and measure again...

Lotsa flux and you should be fine soldering to it. The flux will help a lot with the solder adhesion to those legs, so you don't have to hold the heat on there for so long.

I could be wrong, and it's possibly the wrong part of the circuit to be causing your problems, but I think D1 and D2 might be in backwards. (Those russsian germaniums have their bands on backwards - measure to be sure) A lot of the times in these circuits it doesn't matter since they're...

Do you have continuity with IC5.1 and ground? If not, how many ohms between IC5.1 and ground? What about voltages at IC5.2 and IC5.3? If IC5.1 is ~0V, then it is basically shorted to ground. If you pull IC6 from the socket and measure the voltage, what do you get? (That helps to narrow down...

Do you have another transistor to drop in there to replace the 2222A? Even a cheap 3904, etc. +1 on the audio probe. It's absolutely the most useful tool for debugging guitar effects. IMO it is often more useful than a multimeter, especially as a first pass. Finding out where the audio goes...

Not my board so I'm not sure, but from your pictures it looks like there's just a loop of metal connecting those two pads, rather than the leads of a LED. But I dunno if it's supposed to be that way. Based on the traces you're gonna want to have an LED in there and not the pads shorted...

What's goin on with (what I assume) is the LED, right above where the footswitch is attached? It looks like a short from + to -. (I guess it would go through the CLR so it's not a dead short, but... ). If you don't want an LED in there you should be able to leave it unpopulated. Do you have a...

There's a recent reddit thread about this very thing in /r/diypedals. () Someone mentions they've 3d printed a covering plate - and you can also get a PCB made as a switchplate/faceplate. There are some pinned threads on one of the forum links here that explain how to do that...

Can we see a picture of the top (bottom?) of your pedal and how the DC jack connects? Pedals are tip-negative, sleeve positive - so if your sleeve contacts the enclosure at all you'll have a short and nothing will work because the enclosure is also at ground (negative). This includes using a...

Agree with @phi1, you could do some troubleshooting by trying to take the cap and/or pot out of the equation. There's not a lot going on here, so either the cap is bad or the gain pot is bad, and you've measured the pot. I'd try to replace C6 and see what happens.

It's possible that you have worse problems - I can't tell for sure but it looks like whatever broke the cap off might've taken the solder pad with it. I might see a tiny tear up through the 'C' of C43 where the trace vacated the premises. The good news is that it looks like that pad connects to...

Do you have a TL072 to try instead of the TL022? That might be an upgrade over the 358 in there. Some other random advice: Are your input or output wires close to the LFO at all? Those are big antennas that can pick up the quick voltage changes. You could try beefing up the capacitance on...

Could the pinout of the 7805 be backwards? I think 7805 and 78L05 are switchsies. It looks like it's already in backwards but just check out the datasheet and make sure it's in the way it's supposed to be. Theoretically yeah all of those should be at the same voltage - do they have continuity...

I've noticed this with mine as well. One thing that I've tried that helps the fartiness when pushing the PRE knob is running at a higher voltage. I'm able to get more out of it at 18V than at 9V. Of course this works better if you've over-specced your capacitors. 25V (which is what is...

Oh yeah sorry I forgot to mention - I will probably build this with SMD for myself so I was looking for ~equivalent JFETs and the 209s look close enough so I penciled them in on the schematic. I forgot to change the silkscreen for the through-hole layout but it'd be the two types you mentioned...

I'll bite. I'm not an expert here in the least, but - Using honkin' 1/2W or 1W resistors is gonna run at odds with your design goals of unifying your pedals in some big uberpedal. Even laying out with SMD components, a Phase90 is gonna fill up a lot of a 125B enclosure, let alone all of the...

This for sure, use hierarchical sheets -- they're super handy for keeping logical components separate. In my template, I have a second sheet under the first empty sheet that starts out with the jacks and power and all of that stuff. I've also found it really helpful when designing something...