Search results

Yep, I believe the voltage is switched between 9V input and fixed 14.5V or something like that. I'm curious about what opamp/clipping diodes are used in the "drive module", and whether or not it still uses the same OPA2604 in the other spot.

Oh yeah, I wasn't blaming the socket. I don't think it would have made it here without falling out if had been a machined socket. After seating/reseating though I will say, the IC was secure. I can't get it to seat completely flush but it's definitely not going to fall out. This at least...

I haven't yet. It reminds me of the ones we used to call "damper diodes" in the horizontal deflection circuit of CRT televisions.

Did you change the wiring with the footswitch? If the wires were routed further apart before (like the other footswitch), you might be experiencing some oscillation due to the input wire being so close to the output wire.

This is why leaf spring sockets get a bad rap....

It shouldn't behave this way. The circuit was intended to cycle the relay at power on to ensure the relay state matches the LED.

It looks like it's using the enclosure as ground, assuming those mounting ears are connected to the eyelets like it appears.

If you don't want to use a 3PDT you'll have to look into some form of millenium bypass arrangement. http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/millenium/millen.htm

It was like $50 and outperforms my Flukes that cost more than 20x.

Any idea what has changed?

You ever seen my capacitance meter? .... :ROFLMAO:

There is a Fluke 12 on eBay for $90 shipped.... if you don't buy it I probably will. My Fluke 10 is my favorite meter of all time, the 12 is an upgrade because of the capacitance function. It doesn't have a frequency counter like @jwin615 recommended, so keep that in mind if it matters to you.

Yes, capacitor orientation should match the preview image in this case.

Yes, it's an internal connection.

It's a rotary switch. I suspect it's just a bunch of RC filter combinations on a switch.

They lasted about 30 minutes.

Assuming nothing else was changed, try moving the wiring around. The output of the M800 is running under the SOFTii PCB and awfully close to it's own input wire... this could be part of the issue.

That's not it, this is the one: You can use this: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/680uh-inductor-ec36.html Or you can use a jumper wire like I did. 🤣

It's for a Cliff FCR14422, it grounds the enclosure since the jacks are plastic and make no electrical contact. You only need one, not both, but they can cause the PCB to tilt slightly so the option is there for two. https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/6-1-5/