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Trying it out with some mp38a's ;D Hfe ~45-55 for the first transistor, ~75-85 for the second seems to be working best for me. Not nearly as controllable. Kind of have to max the gain. I'm using the 5v pin as vcc and the bias knob is fairly useful to help balance with the girth but it seems to...

sounds like i need to put c4 on a switch for silver jubilee mode before I finish mine lol

Still dirty/compresses with 510 but of course that isn't the optimal value either. Whatever still solved, I'll get some 390's at some point

Thank you! It's definitely looking like I need it to be a 390. I'll try a 510 in the meantime since that's what I have until I get 390s. I'm guessing it'll clean up but have less max output? I got one of those little smd component packs from Amazon cuz I wanted to go ahead and throw them...

Before I go make an actual build report and give it a rating. Has anyone else actually made one of the microboost clean boosts? Mine works but it distorts/compresses and I could use some help figuring out why. I first tried it with just my guitar but then I put a ge7 in front for the buffer in...

Gotcha so my C should be fine since I'm using fully connected cables. It's just that Ampeg originally used grounded A's on everything but lifted the ground on the cable instead as needed?

hell yeah I appreciate all of that! From my understanding, if it wanted an 800, a 150 would get driven too hard right? And you said the input is supposed to be isolated on the tank like it is. So yep time to open the amp.

It's a split back so I can go open or closed back. Got some black shadows in there with it open. 🔥 It fills the room so much for a 2x12. But all the complaining is beside the point.

If it is supposed to be a C then my tank should be good. It measures, it smacks both ways etc... So unless I needed the A then it seems it's time for me to start cracking open the amp and trying to check all the test points. It was open when I got it split into a head and a cab (broken shell...

Hell yeah appreciate it! Good question. I checked the amps rca jacks themselves and both are grounded. From what I'm googling that means that the tank itself is supposed to have the input isolated to prevent ground loops when the amps jacks are grounded if I understand correctly?

Oh my bad lol, I guess it was just the Facebook algorithm recommending it to me then I hadn't really looked at the curves, so the 1n270 swings out much more than the others. Therefore it doesn't clip as hard and has more headroom maybe? I'll have to reference that while breadboarding at some...

I've been seeing a ton of ads for it but haven't checked it out. That explains why I haven't seen any wampler course ads in a while

Lol fair enough well thanks anyway I didn't even think about reaching out to the company but they also don't say what type on their schematics. I guess someone there will know though

Hey I was exploring the forums and saw you might still have a ss140c (or had one in2021 so fairly recently). If you still have that could you check which reverb tank it has? It probably uses the same reverb tank as the vh and I don't think my reverb tank is the original and can't seem to figure...

Ooooh thats gorgeous

Oh ok my bad. I misread and thought you thought the tl071 was a dual op amp as well and were going to try the other half of that for some reason.

Tl071 is a single channel op amp so only do it as is. Tl072 is a dual channel op amp and yes you could wire a 3pdt to switch it from 321 to 765 to test both halves or just move some jumpers or something.

update still hasn't showed up even though they said they'd send me one :( i just wanna play with my terrarium is that too much to ask

On the reverb tank my multimeter measures it as 24 ohms input, 201 ohms output, but transducers don't measure accurately like that anyway. Just reflowed it for shits and gigs even though I've checked the connections before multiple times.

Mustard and ketchup