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It just lessens the response of the 220n/10k hi-pass a bit, so you get more bass passing through. Good for bass players? Some seem to prefer less bass on the wet side; solved by reducing C3's value.

Right, so, quickly tossed this together, I've shifted the mixing trim to the BBD input to account for the new chips lack of headroom and the insertion loss difference between the two chips. It's not an ideal solution as it messes with the bass response a bit... but I couldn't think of a better...

Oh and no need to bother with the original zener based regulator, it'll give a hair under 6V out, just lift the ground pin on a 78L05 with a pair of 1N5817 or 1N4148 if you want a tiny bit more sweep, should be close enough. Just use an LM1458 for the LFO rather than bothering with individual...

No, LDR's aren't linear in response but I'd be more concerned with finding one with a good resistance range to get a decent sweep ratio over that sort of nuance... LDR's age, an original unit isn't going to give the same response it did when new either.

Depending on the clock frequencies required, an MN3007 might be fine? The SSI isn't a bad chip as such, it's just not the circuit I'd pick to drop it in, in an ideal world we'd have access to MN3004 but beggars can't be choosers in this day and age; kind of an irritating circuit in general to...

When we say clock it's a bit of a generalisation as there's several components to it... a modulation element, an oscillator and usually, a flip flop to provide both phases i.e. the tick and tock of a clock. The square wave 'clock' directly connecting to the BBD isn't what changes the sound...

Yes the schematic is wrong, what's all the +1, +2 business about though? So (excuse the quick shoddy drawing) you want the attached. Don't worry about testing it at +9V or +5V, looking at the SSI datasheet this morning, it doesn't have an internal divider akin to the Reticon chips as I...

I'll tell you what, I'll reimagine the audio path for you to suit the new chip, you don't need the 4049 any more and may as well just use a different oscillator (anything that runs on 5V happily should be fine) and then the LFO is, well it's just an LFO driving an LED. If you build just the...

You'll also have to contend with how the mixing is done here... the TDA1022 has a lot of signal loss, so the mixing resistor (albeit partially determined by trimming) is of smaller value than the dry to compensate. Unfortunately for you, said mixing is part of the output low pass filter and by...

Do you know how to make the clock circuitry compatible with a 5V chip?

If you flip the resistor chain, pin 13 gets 1V(ish). It's just -9V because of the TDA1022 datasheet. I did say not far off; I worked it out properly last time I looked at it.

I think I have a schematic drawn for it with +9V, remind me in a few days time. It's pretty easy really, not far off just literally flipping the polarity on everything.

Maybe I have been, maybe I'm in the room with you right now... :eek: Or not. Yup, I'm partially back and have returned to spread flippant remarks and unsolicited advice. Thanks for the welcome :)

I seem to remember it taking us about 6 or 7 prototypes and over a year to get the DandyHorse PCB working reasonably and I recently "redesigned" the MN3007 Echo Flanger for PastFX with every improvement I could think of, comparing it directly to original units and using all I had learned in the...

Hello... That's mildly amusing, I've worked for PastFX too. It's not an ideal solution as the clock won't be as clean as a divider would provide but you'd need to increase the clock frequency by 4 times otherwise. You need to split the oscillator output so you have the opposing phase, use a...

In that case, try poking the wire away from the 4011. I will say though we've been having issues with more recent production LT1054 chips introducing heterodyning (which can appear as a swoosh), we thought the Karaoke had been immune with the heavier filtering but perhaps not the case for...

LFO noise as in tick or more a swoosh? If it's tick, try poking your ground wires around a bit, they're dangling over the 358 LFO op amp.

:ROFLMAO: That one was my fault! BBD's were originally used heavily in Karaoke units and it just kind of worked for the Chorus sound. Naming is honestly the worst bit of the whole PCB affair. I'm glad you're digging what you've heard out of it so far though and it sounds like you're another...

The voltage on pin 2 & 4 of the 3102 (and by association pin 2 & 6 of the 3207) should be a steady half supply, possibly you might have burnt out the 33R resistor causing its voltage to fluctuate with frequency...

When you swapped in the new 3102, what voltages did you end up with on the 3207? Your new problem, assuming it's not the V.Ref drifting, sounds like it might just be related to a bad solder joint or wrong resistor value around the BBD itself.