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I've built a few Guvernators with the pots wired off board for the main reason that the controls are, IMO, backward. If I populate the board on the backside, then when it is put into the enclosure, the controls, again IMO, the controls are laid out in a way that matches many of not most...

This is the third one I've built. Fantastic project and great sounding circuit. IMO, enclosures are the real challenge. My journey continues in the enclosure front. Every build is a learning experience.

On my first Guvernator build, I installed 4k7 instead of 47k resistors in T101 and R102. The 4k7's produced a lower gain effect than the 47k's, so I was thinking about using a foot switch that would toggle between these two components. I'm not sure there is a foot switch that would support...

This was a challenging build for sure. Getting the LED's lined up and foot switch wiring weren't technically challenging so much as tedious. But she's altogether and looking pretty, IMO. Yeah, I've got some cleaning to do and some leads to clip.

On the board there are five holes for the Gain and the Bias potentiometers. Why are the five holes here rather than three?

...I think I am going to change my assembly process. I have a couple of builds that have unexplainable issues that were never solved. So rather than wait until the moment of truth when power is applied, I'm going to pursue an incremental assembly process. I have typically installed components...

I am getting odd voltage reading on this build. On the 5817 diode, I am getting 9.44V going in. When I check the voltage coming out, it slowly increments up to around 135 mV coming out. R12 matches this voltage and R13 is roughly half of R12, and pin 5 on the IC is roughly equal to R13. If I...

I had this working just fine but needed to put it in a different enclosure. After removing it and hooking up power the Rate LED does not receive power and there is virtually no output. Using a audio probe, on IC1, pin 2 I am getting a good strong signal. On pin 1 of IC1, the output is half of...

Pretty straightforward build, but I have a knack for finding ways to screw things up that exist outside the standard deviations. That said, I can not emphasis enough to avoid the generic innie DC jacks from Tayda. Just don't do it. I am going to use a different DC jack, so disregard the lack...

As I turn the drive past 3 o'clock, the drive increases but the control acts like a low pass filter. All the way open tone is muffled and bassy. I've checked all resistor values and cap values. Everything checks out. Thoughts?

This is my second build of the Guvenator. I had an issue with the small enclosure format so I changed that which required taking the pots off board. Now the control labels are easier to read and is laid out like a Marshall panel. I decided to do a little relicing on the enclosure, just to...

It seems with each Tayda powdercoated enclosure there is one hole that is gummed up with excess powerdercoating. The thread pitch on these holes is M3 x .75. Naturally that is the ONE tap I am missing, but I suspect not having the one tool you need is a universal struggle. Hope this is helpful!

Assembled earlier today with no issues. When engaged the delay time is very long and grainy sounding. I would guess the shortest setting would be in the 400ms - 500ms range. From there is just gets longer and grainier. There is no brightness or clarity to the repeated signal. I doubled checked...

When the circuit is in bypass, LED1 turns off, but LED2 stays on. I read a post where the builder didn't bother working in the bypass for LED2, so I'm curious what one has to do to get LED2 to shut off in bypass mode. Also, is there a way to make LED2 brighter and the pulses more pronounced? I...

I assembled the Abyss and originally it didn't work to well. Namely not at all. So I measured voltages on the LRD's and found shit ton of variance on voltages or none at all. Plus the LED I used wasn't ideal So I bought a bag of LRD's of the correct value (which the original ones were as...

I've gone through various inexpensive DMM' over there years. Early on I actually had a analog meter! I'm sure there are some here that had no idea such a thing existed. Right along with a rotary dial phone that was hardwired to the telco. My current DMM is a Ruoshu 205A and has served my needs...

The LED indicator lights ups just fine, but after that everything seems to go south. Here are the vital signs - TLT72 Leg 1 = 15 mV ~. Ranges from 12mV to 16mV TLT72 Leg 7 = 1 mV D2 = Anode 3.3 mV D3 = K 3 mV D1 Input = 9.45 mV D1 output = 85.4 mV No sound when circuit is engaged. Strange...

I recapped my Voodoo Labs Pedal Power 2 as one of the caps was bad. Whole I was at it, I replaced all the power regulators too (LM317LZ) On one channel the voltage drops from 9.2~ to anywhere from 3.5v to 4.5v. Could this be the bridge rectifier going tits up?

I assembled a Guvenator recently and over all I am very happy with it. I'm building another one and rather than PCB mounted pots I'm going to fly leads to the solder lugs. The reason I'm doing this with the pots is because I want the controls laid out like you would find on a Marshall amp...

I assembled a Guvenator recently and over all I am very happy with it. I'm building another one and rather than PCB mounted pots I'm going to fly leads to the solder lugs. The reason I'm doing this with the pots is because I want the controls laid out like you would find on a Marshall amp...